The first surprise occurs within minutes of stepping into the Dunraven Arms’ tranquil interior. The friendliest of check-ins complete, I am trying to keep pace with the porter leading us to room 85 when I glance inside a large wall cabinet and spy a photograph of a glowing Gwyneth Paltrow with the hotel manager.

Can this be the same Gwyneth Paltrow who recently complained about London’s dirty streets and tardy service? Indeed, it is — but judging by her radiant smile, the Hollywood émigré finds Irish mores altogether more agreeable. Even before we reach our room, it’s easy to see why. As the young porter strides along, he chats happily, telling my two sons about the surrounding heritage village of Adare, its thatched cottages and medieval churches. Thatched cottages, medieval churches? Had I cited these as attractions, our Irish holiday may well have been over before it began, but delivered in a rich brogue, his words have an effect on the the boys that matches anything J. K. Rowling could conjure up.

Our room, a junior suite with en suite dressing room and bathroom, overlooks a courtyard garden with views to the village. The scene is invigorating. Less than an hour after leaving Shannon airport, a 30-minute drive away, my sense of relaxation is complete.

As night closes in, young thoughts turn away from medieval churches towards . . . food. The Dunraven has two restaurants: the informal Inn Between and the Maigue. We choose the latter, and the walk from our room delivers a second surprise. Fires have been lit in sitting rooms and the two bar areas are quickly filling with conversation. The 200- year-old Dunraven, it is obvious, remains a vibrant part of the community, unusual among four-star hotels, where exclusion is valued as much as exclusivity.

The stroll to dinner is interrupted by a wrong turn that takes us into a wedding reception. My confusion is quickly spotted and we are politely ushered out — no sense in showing the happy couple what 10 years of marriage and two young children can do to a man — and soon find ourselves perusing a fine menu. Any fears I have about how the kitchen will cope with such a large gathering are quickly allayed: my roast rib of beef with horseradish cream is superb, and my sons give the roast chicken breast with potato gnocchi their hearty approval.

The following morning, well fuelled on an Irish breakfast of soda bread and eggs, they put their energies to good use in the hotel’s 17m pool. The attendants are quick to organise games, and I need little encouragement to return to the dining room for a leisurely cup of coffee. Two hours later and two tired boys are more than happy to climb into the car for the drive south along the N21 into the heart of Cork.

Les Webb

Bottom line: Les Webb paid 170 euros (£115) for a junior suite for two adults and two children, B&B.

Need to know: Dunraven Arms Hotel, Adare, Co Limerick (00 353 61 396633; www.dunravenhotel.com).

Sampling the fare: Two courses, plus two children’s meals, cost £60, with wine.

What we think: Ideal starting point to explore Ireland’s southwest.

Best thing: Superb food in a relaxed setting.

Worst thing: Busy roads make leaving difficult.

Food: 9 out of 10.

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