As good fortune would have it, I recently found myself at Serendipity House in Derry - on a hill in Bogside, the famous Catholic neighbourhood, overlooking the ancient city walls and 17th-century spire of St Columb's cathedral.

For years Derry was at the heart of clashes between Irish nationalists and the British military - 14 civil rights marchers died when they were fired on by soldiers on Bloody Sunday (January 30, 1972). Now, however, with the Good Friday Agreement a decade old and the closure of the final army base last summer, the “walled city” is attracting more visitors than ever.

I went to see for myself, but there was no room at Tower Hotel, the only hotel within the walls. So I searched the internet, and chanced upon Serendipity.

Serendipity can be found on a terrace halfway up Bogside's hill, about level with St Columb's steeple. The B&B has been open four months, its friendly twentysomething owner, Stephen Lyttle, told me when I arrived for a weekend stay.

As fortune would have it, indeed, I had the best of the five rooms: No 5 at the top, with sweeping views. Looking across terraced roofs, a football pitch and the site of Bloody Sunday to the walls, I thought to myself: “I've done well here.”

Lyttle and I had coffee in the stylish downstairs lounge. He said that he was raised locally and had bought the building with his father, a former taxi driver. “There used to be a watchtower at the end of the street,” he said. “That was just the way it was. Back then, you didn't know any different.”

How did he choose the B&B's name? “My dad just liked the sound of it.” The pair are planning to expand into a building next door that is currently used by students.

Serendipity had a fresh look, with splashes of art and photos of Bogside's anti-violence murals. My room had a comfortable double bed with a gold and brown satin cover, a neat desk (free wi-fi) and a cosy feel. The shower room was like a telephone box, but I could put up with that.

Curious about Bogside, I had a look around - not feeling the slightest bit intimidated. After seeing the murals, the excellent Museum of Free Derry and St Eugene's cathedral, I went for a pint of Guinness at the Bogside Inn, a drinking hole near the famous sign declaring: “YOU ARE NOW ENTERING FREE DERRY.”

This is known as a centre for Republicanism; there is even a photo of Martin McGuinness, a local, drinking at the pub. But Lyttle was right, there was no need to be afraid about visiting. I was “noticed”, but nobody batted an eyelid.

I was just another tourist... lucky to be on holiday, though this may sound hard to believe, in Bogside.

Bottom line Mystery Guest paid £60 for a B&B double

Sampling the fare Good cooked breakfast and burgers available

Best thing The view

Worst thing Room a bit cold

Need to know Serendipity House (0287 1264229, www.serendipityrooms.co.uk), Marlborough Street, Bogside BT48 9AY

Room 7.5 out of 10

Food 7 out of 10

Service 10 out of 10

Value 7 out of 10

Score 7.88

PUT TO THE TEST: 20 Mystery Guest questions for... Serendipity House

1. Do rooms have kettles/coffee makers? And is there fresh milk?

Yes, but only milk cartons.

2. Is there a hairdryer, and is it fixed to a wall?

Yes.

3. Are coathangers metal, wooden, removable?

Wooden and removable.

4. Complimentary bottle of water?

No.

5. Sheets and blankets or duvets?

Duvets.

6. What about a 'pillow menu'?

No.

7. Is lighting good enough for reading?

Reasonable.

8. Is there a shaving/make up mirror? And is it well lit?

No magnified close-up mirrors, but bathrooms are tiny and mirrors are not at a distance.

9. What about the in-room entertainment system?

Small TVs.

10. Is there a temperature control panel?

No, but radiator temperatures can be adjusted.

11. Do the windows open?

Yes.

12. Is there good sound-proofing?

Reasonable, but some sound from neighbouring room.

13. Is there wi-fi internet access?

Yes, free wi-fi.

14. Is there a good place to go jogging nearby?

Brooke Park is at the end of the street.

15. What is the vegetarian food selection like?

Vegetarian meals can be made on request.

16. Is there baby listening/babysitting? And are children welcome at adults' evening meals?

No baby lsitening, but children are welcome.

17. Is there wheelchair access to all areas?

No.

18. Do you get a free paper in the morning?

No.

19. Is there a pub round the corner?

Yes, The Don is a quiet pub serving Guinness at the end of the street.

20. Is there free car parking? And is it secure?

Free parking on the street, not secured.

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