Horse racing is in the blood in Ireland, nowhere more than at Ballygarry House. With the classic miler Dara Monarch, the McGillycuddy family, who run this charming hotel just outside Tralee in southwest Ireland, enjoyed outright success during the 1980s. Nostalgic, glory-day photographs, with triumphant jockeys, hang in the snug bar.

A white-painted Irish country house, but without the draughts, Ballygarry is owned by the young and happy-go-lucky Padraig McGillycuddy. It was acquired by his grandfather in 1958. The family rebuilt Ballygarry with 46 large bedrooms and an adjoining ballroom, popular for weddings.

They have kept the original character, with rugs, clocks and heavy gilt-framed mirrors and oil paintings — many depicting gleaming Irish bloodstock — decorating the entrance, staircase, library and sitting room. The overall feel is homely and unpretentious, but also efficient, with that Irish friendliness that enfolds you. Plus it’s a great base for exploring the Dingle peninsula.

I went with American friends from Boston whose fellow passengers on Aer Lingus had recommended Ballygarry’s rack of Kerry lamb. Sure enough, it was tasty and tender — part of a hearty menu that was definitely a cut above nearby pub grub.

The Americans could hardly believe the generous size of the bedrooms and bathrooms. From my room, 109, I could watch the sun setting behind the misty Dingle hills: you needed to be on the garden side, as the view on the other was the busy road to Killarney.

Padraig thinks minibars and coffee-making paraphernalia anti-social, but he’d gone with everything else — television, CD player, and modem connection. Over a Guinness one evening, I asked Padraig if he had any future McGillycuddy winners in training. He rolled his eyes. “I’ve got about 12,000 cans of dog meat,” he joked. So no new Dara Monarchs, I take it. Nothing if not realists, these Irish racing types.

Sampling the fare: three courses from £25.

Bottom line: B&B doubles £150.

Access all areas: ballroom, restaurant and bar all wheelchair friendly; plus room 104.

Need to know: Ballygarry House (00 353 66 712 3322, www.ballygarryhouse.com ), Killarney Road, Tralee, Co Kerry.

Room: 8 out of 10.

Food: 7 out of 10.

Service: 9 out of 10.

Horseyness: 9 out of 10.

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