Sean Newsom
We've made some changes
to The Sunday Times
Finding a place to self-cater in Italy is rarely a problem — the challenge is
picking somewhere that justifies the eye-watering price. We’ve found the
best of the more sane options, and tracked down the luxury stays that are
really worth the cash. All are from operators with a wider portfolio to
peruse. Flights are not included, unless stated, but can be arranged through
the operator.
PALAZZO DI ARCEVIA,
Le Marche
Sleeps 2
“What,” you cry, “a palace for two people?” Well, not quite. At the Palazzo di
Arcevia, you get to stay on the 1,000-acre estate, but not in the main
house. The owners have converted a range of cottages and farm buildings amid
organic groves and vineyards. All have bags of character — beamed ceilings,
thick stone walls and antique furniture. The estate has a shared pool, a
tennis court and a riding school. Ancona, the nearest airport, is an
80-minute drive away, although Bologna (134 miles away) is the base for
fly-drive packages. One week, arriving on August 5, costs £678pp, based on
two sharing a one-bedroom apartment and including flights and car hire.
With whom? Inntravel (01653 617906, www.inntravel.co.uk), which specialises in
developments of this kind.
RENATO’S TOWER,
Borgo San Biagio, Umbria
Sleeps 2
Borgo San Biagio is a complete medieval hamlet, converted into self-catering
properties. All are appealing, but the pick of them is Renato’s Tower, a
four- storey, 1,000-year-old watch tower with a hot tub on its top terrace.
From here, you can plan all sorts of excursions: the borgo is near the
border with Tuscany, so trips to Siena (65 miles away) are almost as easy as
those to Assisi (40 miles). Pisa is the nearest airport (125 miles), and a
week in the tower, arriving on August 5, costs £1,440 for the property. The
entire hamlet (which can accommodate 20) can also be booked; one week,
arriving on August 5, costs £5,720. Fly to Pisa with British Airways (0870
850 9850, www.ba.com), EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) or Ryanair
(www.ryanair.com).
With whom? CV Travel (0870 606 0803, www.cvtravel.co.uk), which also offers
properties in Tuscany, Lazio, Campania, Puglia, Sardinia and Sicily.
TRULLO AZZURRO,
Cisternino, Puglia
Sleeps 6
Trulli are the new stars of the Italian self-catering scene. Built of stone
and shaped like witches’ hats, they make for a cool refuge from the summer
sun. What’s more, they provide a perfect base from which to explore the
riches of Puglia, from its open-air markets and music festivals to the
historic harbour towns of the coast. Trullo Azzurro is a classic example —
approached down a long drive and surrounded by fig, almond, cherry and
pomegranate trees. It has a built-in barbecue for alfresco dinners. One
week, arriving on August 5, costs £860 for the property, including car hire.
Brindisi airport is a 45-minute drive away. Fly there with Ryanair
(www.ryanair.com).
With whom? Long Travel (01694 722367, www.long-travel.co.uk), which
specialises in southern Italy, Sicily and Sardinia, and has become a trullo
expert.
PODERE CONSANI,
near Lucca, Tuscany
Sleeps 4
All manner of sallies can be mounted from Podere Consani. A recent restoration
of two cottages, set in the gardens of the larger house, it sits on a sunny
plateau just 15 minutes’ drive from Lucca and 30 minutes from the coast. But
your inclination to explore is going to be severely dented
by your surroundings, which include lemon trees, lavender and a large shared
pool. There’s a working stable here, too, as well as footpaths into the
Apuan Alps. One week, starting on August 5, costs £729pp, based on four
sharing and including flights to Pisa (a 45-minute drive) and car hire.
With whom? Simply Travel (0870 405 5005, www.simplytravel.co.uk), which offers
apartments, cottages and larger villas in Tuscany, Umbria, Calabria,
Sardinia and Sicily.
LA MARRANA,
Montemarcello, Ligurian coast
Sleeps 5
Culture vultures will love this high Ligurian perch — 700 steps above the sea,
and part of a huge estate containing one of Italy’s best sculpture parks.
Lush gardens surround the villa; there are views not just to the
Mediterranean, but to the mountains; and the interiors have been designed
with considerable flair, to harmonise with the overall aesthetic of
the estate. Pisa is the nearest airport, an hour away, and the property must
be booked for a minimum of two weeks — arriving on August 5, the cost is
£2,696. Fly to Pisa (as above).
With whom? An Invitation to Tuscany (0845 838 7421,
www.invitationtotuscany.com), which also offers properties in Umbria and
Lazio.
CASA GABRIELLA,
Tavarnelle, Tuscany
Sleeps 4
Only 15 miles from Florence, Casa Gabriella is a big old Tuscan house split
into five apartments. The pool and gardens are shared, but there’s plenty of
room for everyone to scatter amid the tall cypress trees. Inside, the style
is simple and rustic, but with so many of the region’s star attractions
within easy striking distance, and some of the Chianti’s finest vineyards on
the doorstep, you won’t be lingering. Florence is the nearest airport. One
week in a four-person apartment, arriving on August 5, costs £1,399. Fly to
Florence with Meridiana (www.meridiana.it).
With whom? Sovereign Villas (0870 901 4012, www.sovereignvillas.co.uk), which
focuses on Tuscany.
LA SASSAIA,
Sovicille, Tuscany
Sleeps 8
La Sassaia’s owner, Claudio Bilenchi, is a talented chef and a tireless
promoter of the region’s food producers. So, as well as the usual
villa-holiday diet of lazy days by the pool, guests at La Sassaia can sign
up for cookery classes and guided food tours. Back at base, this lovely
house manages to be both rustic and elegant, and comes complete with several
exquisite shaded areas, tailor-made for hours of idle chat. Florence is the
nearest airport, an hour away. One week, arriving on August 5, costs £5,950
for the property.
A separate guesthouse (for up to six people) is also available. Fly to
Florence (as above).
With whom? Wimco (0870 850 1144, www.wimco.co.uk) has a large portfolio
covering the Amalfi coast, Rome, Sicily, Umbria and the Italian Lakes, as
well as Tuscany.
VILLA ADRIANA,
Maggiore, Italian Lakes
Sleeps 12
A 1960s villa? No, really — this is an elegant, well-mannered place that sits
in a big lawned garden on the shores of Lake Maggiore, with immediate
surroundings provided by
the Lagoni de Mercurago regional park. Milan’s Malpensa airport is 20 miles
away. One week, arriving on August 5, costs £4,730 for the property,
including two hire cars, but not flights. Two-week bookings are preferred in
summer. Fly to Milan with Alitalia (0870 544 8259, www.alitalia.co.uk), BA
(0870 850 9850, www.ba.com), BMI (0870 6070 555, www.flybmi.com), EasyJet
(www.easyjet.com) or Aer Lingus (0818 365000, www.aerlingus.com).
With whom? The Owners Syndicate (020 7801 9807, www.ownerssyndicate.com),
which offers properties throughout the Italian Lakes district, Amalfi,
Liguria, Le Marche, Sardinia, Sicily and Umbria.
VILLA AMALFI,
Campania
Sleeps 12
This is a house for lazy summer living — perched on a cliff, high above the
sea, surrounded by richly planted gardens. Jasmine creeps over the pergolas,
geraniums choke the terracotta pots. Inside, the rooms are bright, airy and
simply furnished, with amazing garden views.
All in all, it’s not a place you’ll find easy to leave. Naples is 40 miles
away. One week, starting on August 5, costs £7,200 for the property.
Fly to Naples with BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com) or EasyJet
(www.easyjet.com).
With whom? Carefree Italy (01293 552277, www.carefree-italy.com), which has a
villa programme that covers less-familiar regions, such as Emilia-Romagna,
Sicily and Ischia.
PALAZZO PRUGNOLI,
Monte Santa Maria Tibernia, Umbria
Sleeps 16
Once the property of the Prince of Milan, Palazzo Prugnoli was built in the
16th century and overlooks the rolling Umbrian countryside. Its recent
renovation has been sensitively handled, but there are plenty of mod cons,
including a vast pool with its own pergola, outdoor shower and built-in
drinks fridge. Italian lessons are an optional extra, as are the services of
a nanny or chef. Florence is a two-hour drive away. One week, arriving on
August 5, costs £6,825 for the property, excluding flights. Fly to Florence
(see previous page).
With whom? A&K Villas (0845 070 0618, www.abercrombiekent.co.uk). Its
range of villas in Tuscany, Umbria and Sardinia includes some of the poshest
on the market.
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