Belinda Archer
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There are the Big Ten ski resorts such as Verbier, Méribel and Courchevel in Les Trois Vallées and the party town of Val d’Isère that bask in the glory of being über fashionable. Then there is a large number of other resorts that, for some reason or another, are not smiled upon by the fickle ski fraternity.
Ever heard of Les Diablerets? La Clusaz even? Or thought about Flaine for your annual outing? Probably not. But there are very good reasons why each of these so-called “unfashionable resorts” should be considered.
La Clusaz is a charming, quintessentially French ski destination in the Les Aravis region of the Haute Savoie, which offers a wide range of skiing for all levels and some great off-piste. It is also very friendly, only about an hour from Geneva, and has some excellent mountain restaurants.
The Swiss destination of Les Diablerets also has much to recommend it. The Ski Club of Great Britain has started offering it as a destination this season, under its holiday arm Ski Freshtracks, and it seems to have plenty to offer from an authentically Swiss mountain atmosphere to nursery to nerve-racking pistes – but without the higher prices of the more frequented resorts. There is even a glacier, guaranteeing skiability.
Betony Garner, of the Ski Club, says: “Les Diablerets used to be a hot spot but for unknown reasons it has gone out of favour in recent years. We have decided to bring it back this season because it offers snow-sure skiing in a pretty ski area and it is nowhere as busy as the major resorts. It is perfect for a weekend as well because it is only an hour and a half away from Geneva.”
So what is it that these less popular resorts do not have? What makes them unfashionable and overlooked? Malcolm Bentley, managing director of Made to Measure Ski, a specialist in tailormade breaks, says: “They all lack something key. They do not have the acreage of skiing that the world-renowned, fashionable resorts have, or their lift systems may not be as extensive. Alternatively, they may not be party places or have the big bars on the slopes or the thumping nightlife, or be such good places for the nonskiing members of a family.”
Nevertheless, there are very good reasons why these neglected destinations should figure on your radar. Crucially, they are not as crowded as the top resorts, they also offer far better value for money and they are excellent for short breaks.
“It is very difficult to get into some of the bigger resorts for the weekend, either because the hoteliers are just geared up for Saturday to Saturday bookings or because they are so popular that they are booked up for weekends already,” Bentley says.
Switzerland and Austria have numerous excellent resorts that are not deemed world class. Some may lack the nightlife and the advanced infrastructure of their more favoured French counterparts but they have preserved more of their charm.
Contenders include the Austrian resorts of Galtür, Sölden and Kaprun and the Swiss resorts of Grindelwald, Wengen, Davos, Klosters and Saas Fee.
In France, Flaine is a typically overlooked resort, while Les Ménuires offers a cheaper alternative to the chic, Esher-on-Ice Trois Vallées resorts of Méribel and Courchevel.
“Fashionable or super-popular resorts tend to go in cycles. In the Sixties, everybody was going to Andermatt and Klosters, whereas now they are no longer skied in,” Bentley declares.
To be really fashionable, perhaps it may be an idea to be ahead of the curve and go somewhere a bit different this winter.
Good spots to leave the in-crowd and the queues behind
La Clusaz/Le Grand Bornand
Pretty, authentically French ski area in Les Aravis mountains. Five linked
sectors provide more than 200km (124 miles) of skiing. Good off-piste but
largely intermediate slopes. Less than an hour from Geneva.
Flaine
Ugly Bauhaus resort, purpose-built in the 1960s and resembling an inner-city
concrete housing estate. However, the French resort has fantastic family
skiing and better mountain restaurants than “fashionable” resorts, including
notoriously underserviced Chamonix. Outlying villages such as Les Carroz and
Samoens provide prettier accommodation. Flaine is 70km from Geneva airport.
Villars
Traditional old resort in Switzerland within driving distance of Verbier and
linked to Les Diablerets. A scenic cog railway transports visitors up from
Bex in the valley. It can be reached by direct train transfers from Geneva
airport. Sunny, low-altitude slopes.
Les Ménuires
Cheap and cheerful alternative in France’s Trois Vallées. Lies halfway up
Belleville Valley, offering ready access for keen skiers and value-for-money
packages for families. The core of the village, La Croisette, is charmless
but new, outlying developments are more chalet-style, if not luxury.
Saas Fee
Highlying Swiss resort, pictured right, with glacier. Car-free, charming
village atmosphere, easier to get into and offering better value for money
than Zermatt across the valley.
Davos
A big, grey town rather than a cute Swiss mountain village and a bit spread
out. But it offers very good skiing and excellent off-piste. Nearby
Klosters, a favourite with the British Royals, is a more attractive
alternative but not so well placed.
Les Diablerets
Slightly sprawling intermediate Swiss resort sitting at 1,200m (3,937ft) with
a good mix of blue and red runs. Stunning skiing and views from its high
glacier, Glacier 3000.
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