Susan d'Arcy
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It’s the wedding of the year, an event so epic, it has confirmed Elizabeth Hurley as the ultimate bridezilla. The nuptials involve lavish ceremonies spread across two continents and eight days, and governed by a strict dress code (from “glamorous and casual” to “glamorous and fabulous”). Is it excessive, or simply proof that Liz wants everything to be perfect? That’s the perfectionism of a woman who famously survived on cabbage soup until she’d shed her postpartum pounds.
The first exchange of vows took place yesterday at Sudeley Castle in Gloucestershire, but the real action was at nearby Barnsley House, one of the new breed of trendy country-house hotels, where the A-listers (Elton John, Permatanella Versace, Sharon Osbourne) woke this morning. One might argue that Barnsley was also the venue for the most important aspect of the proceedings: Elizabeth’s last-minute beauty preparations. Sensibly, the hotel’s owners had taken Hurley’s determination to be a beautiful bride seriously — so seriously, in fact, that they built a spa for the occasion. Elizabeth and friends have exclusive use of it this weekend, and it opens to the public on Friday, once her party has segued to the subcontinent. It is tipped to be the place to be rubbed, scrubbed, wrapped and — for Barnsley’s celebrity fans, such as Gwyneth and Nicole — papped in 2007. We’ve been given a sneak preview to see if this Cotswold comfort zone lives up to the hype.
As it happens, “glamorous and casual” describes exactly the ambience for which a five-star spa should strive. Barnsley has a distinct advantage here. To reach it, guests stroll through one of the country’s most romantic gardens, designed by the horticultural genius Rosemary Verey. She owned this 17th-century manor for 50 years until her death in 2001, and lovingly transformed its four acres into the quintessential English country garden.
The spa, hidden within her Secret Garden, has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking elegant flowerbeds and water features created by the Chelsea Flower Show gold medallist Stephen Woodhams, who often worked with Verey. The building is every bit as British as its herbaceous borders, with glorious, honey-coloured exposed stone walls, shimmering flagstone floors and a roaring fireplace in the relaxation room. There are some welcome contemporary twists, too. Guests are given iPod Shuffles along with their bathrobes, and laze on black leather chaises longues under elaborate Venetian chandeliers.
Slinky surroundings are all well and good, but the success of a spa depends on its treatments. Five years ago, most of us could have been massaged with oil still warm from the chip pan and we’d have been none the wiser. Now we’re much more spa-savvy. Barnsley House is collaborating with Ren, a hip British range that is natural (no nasty petrochemicals), celebrity-endorsed (Kate Moss loves its Moroccan Rose Otto products) and reassuringly green (2.5% of profits go to eco-causes). Better still, its therapists apply oils and unguents with expertise and refreshing common sense. (Or am I the only one who thinks “Oh, shut up and get on with it” when a masseuse wastes five minutes asking about my chakras?)
The signature treatment (two hours, £155) incorporates a scrub, hot-stone therapy, massage and facial, and left me suitably soft-skinned and spaghetti-limbed. I did take exception to the spa’s bossy tone, though. You’re told you can spend only one hour in the steam and sauna rooms before your treatment and the same in the relaxation room afterwards. Step away from the stopwatch: at these prices, I’ll stay in the water till I prune if I want to.
As for “fabulous and glamorous”, that’s the rest of the hotel. It’s a Miss Marple-meets-Moulin Rouge fantasy, with ancient mullioned windows and creaking floorboards, complemented by Kylie-camp touches, among them the bar’s vampish tulip chairs, a Jacuzzi in room 19, a dazzling glitter ball in room 2 (where Sharon stayed with Kelly) and a stunning dinosaur-egg bath in room 11 (where Elton spent the night).
And the verdict? This place definitely beats boiled cabbage as a beauty aid.
Barnsley House (01285 740000, www.barnsleyhouse.com ) has spa breaks from £175pp until May 31, including dinner, breakfast and a full-body massage
Three more A-list spa hotels
BABINGTON HOUSE, Frome, Somerset
Star guests: Sienna Miller, Zoë Ball, Madonna
Star treatments: this trendy Georgian manor’s Cowshed spa has a blissfully pastoral setting, with a stunning pool in leafy woodland. It also offers a fabulous line in English eccentricity, so treatments are taken in a series of log cabins dotted around its lake. It’s Notting Hill with wellies, but surprisingly friendly for all that. Go for the Marhalika facial (75 minutes, £85), during which threads are drawn across your forehead to encourage an outer glow. The bottom line:doubles from £225 (01373 812266, www.babingtonhouse.co.uk ).
PENNYHILL PARK, Bagshot, Surrey Star guests: Cameron Diaz, Daniel Craig, Elizabeth Jagger
Star treatments:perfect for a summer weekend, as it has several alfresco pools and hot tubs, as well as an ice cave should you overheat in the schnapps steam room. Pennyhill is the only wellbeing centre in Britain to offer Terraké (new, ultra-posh products from the marine-algae specialist Thalgo). Of Air and Light Snow Breeze might sound like bad poetry, but it features a buddleia and white-tea gel that is expertly massaged into your body, leaving you looking 10 years younger — as well as £150 lighter.
The bottom line: doubles from £258 (01276 471774, www.exclusivehotels.co.uk ).
GRAYSHOTT, Hindhead, Surrey
Star guests: Billie Piper, Joanna Lumley, Judi Dench
Star treatments: this is the grand old dame, a thoroughly British destination spa set in 47 acres of landscaped gardens adjoining 700 acres of the National Trust’s green and pleasant land. It is home to Elaine Williams, a naturopath, osteopath and acupuncturist who is the nonsurgical answer to Botox and liposuction. A session costs £70 for 45 minutes. The bottom line: doubles from £360 (01428 602000, www.grayshottspa.com ). Three more Alist spa hotels
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