It was late November and, somehow, I still had 13 days leave. I was knackered
and in desperate need of some wintersun - but with a boyfriend whose work
schedule wouldn't allow him to join me, and whose girlfriends had spent all
their leave. If I wanted to get away, I'd have to go it alone. Or use
valuable holiday chilling at home - or even worse, Christmas shopping...
I'd always considered myself rather independent with a healthy sense of
adventure, but the idea of being alone on a package holiday was rather
scary. Being comfortable in your own company is one thing - spending a week
sunbathing on your tod, even with a good novel and a pile of glossies, would
be enough to send me bonkers. The idea was to return home relaxed, not
insane. So I flirted with the idea of a joining a flotilla in the Caribbean
before opting for Egypt. Only five hours' flight time, year-round sunshine,
and with the Red Sea offering some of the best diving in the world: I took a
leap of faith and decided to head to the Sinai and learn to scuba for a
week.
Longwood Holidays' brochure stated that it brings "like-minded people
together in a relaxed and comfortable environment." Which I translated
as, "don't worry you're not the only one who doesn't have anyone to go
on holiday with." I gave the company a call and spoke to Dan, a
divemaster himself, clearly experienced in dealing with solo trip first
timers.
He explained that, "loads of people are happy to go diving on their own
because you always team up with a 'dive buddy' and dive in a group". As
it turned out, the dates for the next single week didn't work for me, but I
signed up on their recommendation for the Learn to Dive package at the same
hotel, Bedouin Moon, in Dahab - a "laid-back village on the Sinai
Peninsula, renowned for unspoilt beaches, spectacular diving and a key stop
off on the backpacker trail." It sounded ideal.
Heading to the airport with no-one to share the excitement of going on holiday
was a little strange, but before I knew it I was in a minibus hurtling
through the desert chatting non stop to Christina, 30, a fellow Londoner
who, although a qualified diver was in exactly the same boat as me. After
about an hour, we arrived at the charming whitewashed hotel a mile outside
the town, between the Red Sea and the Sinai mountains where we were greeted
by the two hotel dogs.
Although my room was quite basic, it was clean and comfortable with stunning
views of the sea at the front, and a rear view overlooking a gorgeous pool,
bar area and yoga centre, with floodlit landscaped gardens. I'd hardly had
time to take it all in before I was off for supper and several glasses of
local wine with Christina and the other guests. From that moment on it was
if I'd never come on my own. Later on, I retired to bed leaving the balcony
door ajar - I felt safe and a very long way from London.
The Reef 2000 dive school is attached to the hotel. After an early breakfast,
I met Sabry, my 35-year-old dive instructor, whose reputation was of being
the best in Dahab and successfully teaching 1,000 people. It also helped
that I would be learning with Jamie, 27 a construction project manager, who
would be my "dive buddy". After being kitted out, or rather
squeezed into our scuba gear, Sabry outlined the training programme. The
PADI Open Water course would take four days and be a combination of
practical and theoretical training. Also there would be no mucking around in
swimming pools. And, true to his word after a morning at base, we were
whisked off to the Lighthouse Reef putting theory into practice.
Far more difficult than I imagined, Sabry was incredibly patient as I
struggled to come to terms with the fact that I was breathing underwater.
Scuba diving, I discovered, is a bit of mental battle. But, practice makes
perfect and under our instructors excellent tuition my "dive buddy"
Jamie and I were soon getting to grips with the sport in between hysterical
laughing fits. The beachside Dahab restaurants became our classroom and on
return to base, we were debriefed before joining other divers for beers.
Learning had never been such fun.
That's not to say it wasn't both physically and mentally demanding. Moving
around in full scuba gear was a work out in itself and with all the training
and study required to learn this sport safely, plus a few scary moments,
learning to dive was no walk in the park. Therefore, it was both an exciting
and proud moment when Sabry congratulated us on qualifying as PADI Open
Water Divers at the end of Day 4. It also meant that I could spend the rest
of the week sunbathing by the pool, pottering around the bazaars, take a
yoga class or even try out Yoga Diving.
Sabry had other ideas and, after convincing me that I didn't want to miss out
on The Canyon, (one of the reasons so many divers come to Dahab), I signed
up for the Advanced Course. I'm so glad I did, for it was at this beautiful
dive site, that I truly understood why so many people love to dive. Dropping
over the edge of the reef canyon at 18 metres, then spiralling down to the
cavern 30 metres below, taking a few minutes on the sandy seabed with
numerous marine life, was a magical, almost life-changing experience. The
next day boat diving at Garb El Bint, with its incredible Gorgonian forests,
big walls and schools of reef fish was equally impressive - it made the all
the hard work worthwhile.
Diving is hungry work, and heading off to town for dinner was an adventure in
itself. For £1, six of us would pile into the back of a taxi pickup and head
to candle-lit beachside restaurants and chill out bars with oversized
cushions and hubbly bubbly pipes. Ridiculously cheap, we were dining out
like kings for an average £7.
Most excursions were unavailable s we were out of season, but on one glorious
full moon evening, Barbara, the resident yoga teacher, arranged a meditation
and supper with Bedouin up in the mountains. With most of us new to
meditation it was quite an experience sitting crossed legged in the
moonlight, clearing our overloaded minds and feeling so relaxed - especially
as only a few days before, none of us had even met.
My seven days were up but I wasn't ready to go and could have easily spent
another week at the Bedouin Moon, with its laid-back ambience, attentive
staff, excellent dive team and my newfound friends. I also wanted to
experience more of what Dahab had to offer; I hadn't dived The Blue Hole,
tried Yoga Diving or fully explored the streets and bazaars. I made a
promise to myself to return with friends. But then again, I'd happily go
back on my own - it's definitely more of an adventure.
Need to know:
Although other dive holiday companies are more than happy for people to come
alone for a supplement, Longwood
Holidays specifically arranges single traveller weeks. Prices cost from
£319, including flights, transfers and B&B at Bedouin Moon. Learn
to Dive Package cost from £149 and advanced courses, £125. Dive courses
available at www.reef2000.org
I know exactly what you are talking about. I have been to the Bedouin Moon many times - and every time, I went alone. I'll be back again this year. The Bedouin Moon is the friendliest 'diving' hotel I have ever stayed at. And the staff are so attentive. I'll pass on your best wishes and comments to Sabri and the rest of the staff when I see them.
Steve Mannering, Exeter, Devon