PARIS
Jonathan Derbyshire
7pm Start with preprandial drinks at Le Baron Rouge (Rue Théophile
Roussel; 00 33-1 43 43 14 32), a delightfully rustic and convivial bar à
vins tucked away in a side street in the 12th arrondissement. Choose your
wine from an extravagantly long list and drink it by the glass,
gesticulating wildly like the locals, standing either at the zinc bar or by
one of several upturned barrels on the pavement outside.
9pm Close by is Le Square Trousseau, a brasserie popular with Parisian
media types as much for its glorious belle époque interior as for its
cuisine (Rue Antoine Vollon; 1 43 43 06 00; £49 for two). A 10-minute walk
into the 11th arrondissement, Bistrot Paul Bert is unprepossessing but
serves wholesome traditional fare. Steaks are served one way: rare (18 Rue
Paul Bert; 1 43 72 24 01; dinner for two £56).
11pm You’ll need to walk off your dessert, so stroll up the hill to
Ménilmontant, the 20th-arrondissement quartier that’s replaced Oberkampf as
the home of Paris’s hippest bars. Many host live music: among the best are
Studio de l’Ermitage (Rue de l’Ermitage; 1 44 62 02 86, www.studio-ermitage.com
) and La Maroquinerie (Rue Boyer; 1 40 33 35 05, www.lamaroquinerie.fr
), where the emphasis is on indie rock.
1am Though you wouldn’t guess it from looking at its shabby exterior,
Café des Sports (Rue de Ménilmontant; 1 46 36 48 18), in the 20th
arrondissement, is home to one of Paris’s hottest dancefloors, packed for
free DJ sessions most nights. And if you’re danced off your feet, you can
cool off in the bar of Le Colimaçon restaurant opposite (Rue de
Ménilmontant; 1 40 33 10 40), until it shuts at 2am.
Where to sleep: Hôtel Bourg Tibourg (1 42 78 47 39, www.hotelbourgtibourg.com
) has a fantastic location, smack in the middle of the Marais, and
extraordinary neo-gothic decor by Jacques Garcia. Doubles start at £153. If
you have exacting standards when it comes to interior design, but are on a
budget, try Le Quartier République, Le Marais (1 48 06 64 97, www.lequartierhotelrm.com
). It’s part of Franck Altruie’s chain of affordable boutique hotels, with
doubles from £64.
Getting there: by train, with Eurostar (01233 617575, www.eurostar.com
) or by plane. Airlines flying to Paris include BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com
), Air France (0870 142 4343, www.airfrance.co.uk
) and EasyJet (www.easyjet.com ).
MILAN
Jan Fuscoe
7pm The Milanese version of happy hour is much more relaxing than our
desperate booze cruise. Until about 9.30pm they sup cocktails and munch on
buffets that are served – often free – at the bar. Join in at Bhangrabar
(Corso Sempione, Metro Duomo; 00 39-02 34 93 44 69, www.bhangrabarmilano.com
), where DJs play soul, jazz and rare groove, and Indian treats are dished
up with aperitifs.
9pm Those nibbles have just warmed you up, so now it’s time to eat.
Head for Cracco-Peck with its two Michelin stars and consistently good
reviews of its saffron risotto and breaded veal (Via Victor Hugo; 02 87 67
74). Alternatively, for the Peck magic without the formality and high
prices, try the more casual Peck Italian Bar, which is popular with young
locals (Via Cesare Cantu; 02 86 93 01 7).
11pm Since it opened in 2000, the Sheraton’s Diana Garden Bar (Viale
Piave; 02 20 58 1, www.starwoodhotels.com
) has become the place for the Milanese fashion elite to gather. Sip
aperitifs while gazing at the catwalk shows that are staged inside during
Fashion Week in January and June. In summer the garden is fabulous, but the
place, part of the Sheraton Diana Majestic Hotel, is also lively in the
winter.
1am One of the oldest and best clubs in Milan is Plastic (admission
£7-£14 inc one drink; Viale Umbria; 02 73 39 96, www.thisisplastic.com
). Depending on the night, there’s funky jazz, electro, rock, Italian trash
or pop. Weekdays, the ex-industrial Alcatraz (admission £8 inc one drink;
Via Valtellina; 02 69 01 63 52, www.alcatrazmilano.com
) is a top music venue. At weekends it turns into the largest dance space in
the city.
Where to sleep: for real style points, rent a three-room suite at
3Rooms (02 62 61 63, www.3rooms-10corsocomo.com
) from £174. It’s above Milan’s multipurpose style emporium, 10 Corso Como,
and is suitably slick inside. More budget is the charming B&B Alle
Meraviglie (02 80 51 02 3, www.allemeraviglie.it
), with doubles from £101, set just off Via Dante, with silk curtains and
fresh flowers.
Getting there: Linate is six miles from the city centre. Airlines
flying there include EasyJet (www.easyjet.com
), British Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com
) and Alitalia (0871 424 1424, www.alitalia.co.uk
). Malpensa and Bergamo are 30 miles away – Jet2 (0871 226 1737, www.jet2.com
) and Ryanair (0871 246 0000, www.ryanair.com).
AMSTERDAM
Steve Korver
7pm To get your evening off on the right foot, head to the historic,
standing-room-only Wynand Fockink (Pijlsteeg; 00 31-20 639 2695, www.wynand-fockink.nl
) for an early-evening aperitif. Its epic menu of liqueurs and jenevers
(Belgian gin) is quite something. Near a windmill, Brouwerij t IJ (Funenkade
(20 320 1786, www.brouwerijhetij.nl
) offers tradition, home-brewed beer and a terrace.
9pm Deal with the munchies by scaling the heights of Dutch cuisine –
Indonesian. There are two worth trying: Tempo Doeloe (Utrechtsestraat; 20
625 6718, www.tempodoeloerestaurant.nl
; main courses £13.50-£17) is the posh one, but its half-price neighbour
Tujuh Maret (Utrechtsestraat; 20 427 9865, www.tujuh-maret.nl
) also rates – try the mixed rijstafel, a small plate selection of 10 or so
different dishes.
11pm There are several relatively new joints catering to a fun – but
not too full-on – night out: Sugar Factory (Lijnbaansgracht; 20 626 5006, www.sugarfactory.nl
) mixes wacky performances with quirky groove-orientated DJs. Funk and
hip-hop at Bitterzoet (Spuistraat; 20 521 3001, www.bitterzoet.com
); Studio 80 (Rembrandtplein; 20 521 8333, www.studio-80.nl
) for electro and dirty disco.
1am Clubbers after all-nighters should head to the rightly legendary
Melkweg (Lijnbaansgracht 234a; 20 531 8181, www.melkweg.nl
) or Paradiso (Weteringschans 6-8; 20 626 4521, www.paradiso.nl
), an eclectic space in a converted church – both are cool, check locally
for DJs. Jazz hounds are best directed to the Bimhuis (Piet Heinkade 3; 20
788 2188, www.bimhuis.nl ) for decent
live music.
Where to sleep: the Grand Hotel Amrath Amsterdam (20 552 0000, www.amrathamsterdam.nl
), near Centraal station, is a new monumental hotel housed in the first
example of the Amsterdam school of architecture, and includes epic interiors
along with all mod cons; doubles from £314. For something more designer
quirky and with a range of one- to five-star rooms, ranging from £66 to
£314, Lloyd Hotel (20 561 3604, www.lloydhotel.com
) is located in the up-and-coming eastern docklands and a 10-minute tram
ride from Centraal station.
Getting there: airlines flying to Amsterdam include KLM (0870 507 4074, www.klm.com
), BMI (0870 607 0555, www.flybmi.com )
and EasyJet (www.easyjet.com ).
BERLIN
Dave Rimmer
7pm Oranienburgerstrasse, in Mitte, on Berlin’s tourist trail, has
discreet and worthwhile joints scattered among brasher attractions. One is
Ambulance (Oranienburger Strasse 27; no phone), offering excellent cocktails
in red and cream lounge surroundings. For martinis in a more
self-consciously stylish atmosphere, try the bar at Shiro i Shiro
(Rosa-Luxemburgstrasse 11; 00 49-30 9700 4790, www.shiroishiro.com
).
9pm The place for dinner is the Grill Royal (Friedrichstrasse 105b; 30
2887 9288; main course £14) – expansive, modernist, down on the banks of the
River Spree. If you want quieter, more picturesque surroundings and an
innovative modern European menu stressing local ingredients, go for Maxwell
(Bergstrasse 22; 30 280 7121, main course £10) and its wonderful neo-gothic
courtyard.
11pm As an aid to digestion, you’ll be wanting a drink. Greenwich
(Gipsstrasse 5; 30 2809 5566) is suitably upmarket, offering a long bar, a
similarly lengthy aquarium and decent digestifs. But if you’re after cosy
and casual, try Alt-Berlin (Münzstrasse 23; no phone), an old-style Berlin
Eckkneipe (corner pub). Peering in the front door at the bar, it isn’t
immediately apparent that there’s a beautiful saloon in the back.
1am Bohannon (admission £7; Dircksenstrasse 40; 30 6950 5287) is a
great basement, where local-boys-made-(very)-good Jazzanova often play when
they’re in town. As night turns to morning, head for the former industrial
waterfront district of Friedrichshain and the Berghain/Panorama Bar
(admission £10; Am Wriezener Bahnhof; no phone), a techno palace in an old
East German power station.
Where to sleep: the nononsense hotel-apartments at Lux 11 (30 936 2800, www.lux-eleven.de
) are stylish, comfortable and well located. Each has a sitting area,
kitchen and raised shower, from £94. Or there’s Q! (30 810 0660, www.loock-hotels.com
), where both bed and bath are part of the same wooden unit, so you can roll
into bed after a soak. The vibe here is young and friendly, and there’s a
beautiful Japanese-styled spa. Doubles are from £90.
Getting there: airlines flying to Berlin include Air Berlin (0871 500
0737, www.airberlin.com ), EasyJet (www.easyjet.com
), BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com ), Ryanair
(0871 246 0000, www.ryanair.com ) and
Jet2 (0871 226 1737, www.jet2.com ).
BELGRADE
Tome Popper
7pm Not even grandma and the kids miss happy hour in Belgrade – come
the evening, whole families fill outdoor cafes along Kneza Mihaila, the old
town’s bustling, pedestrian-only thoroughfare. Bars abound here and on
nearby streets such as Obilicev venac – try OK.NO (Obilicev venac 17; 00
38-1 11 262 9072; 9am-2am), where the decor has a coal-mining theme, with
pickaxes and miners’ lamps on the walls.
9pm Serbs love grilled meats. The burger-shaped pljeskavica or
cevapcici , made with minced lamb, beef and pork, are favourites. You’ll
find them on street-corner stalls – just follow your nose. For classier, and
classic, Serbian meals, try the pretty, cobblestoned, old bohemian quarter
of Skadarlija, where Tri Sesira (Skadarska 29; 1 11 324 7501; 11am-1am)
serves hearty, meaty fare and fish.
11pm Time to take in the modern side of town: the bustling and
tree-lined Strahinjica Bana is Belgrade’s busiest bar strip and has plenty
of decent places to drink. Two that attract the cream of the glamour crowd,
with crisp decor, good menus and excellent cocktails, are Scena (Strahinjica
Bana 17; 1 11 218 5366) and Ipanema (Strahinjica Bana 68; 1 11 328 3069;
noon-midnight).
1am It’s party time on dozens of adjacent boats docked in two patches
of riverside in Novi Belgrade. Crowds throng Povetarac (Savski kej bb), near
the Gazela Bridge, as it attracts bigger-name DJs, but try the others, too –
just hop on board. In the old town, there’s usually a mob at Andergraund
(Pariska 1a; 1 11 262 5681, www.andergraund.com
), a nightlife institution, in the catacombs of scenic Kalemegdan Citadel.
Where to sleep: two intimate five-star hotels in the heart of town that
will pamper you in 19th-century splendour are the Aleksandar Palas (1 330
5300, www.aleksandarpalas.com )
and Hotel Admiral Club (1 303 8260, www.hoteladmiralclubbeograd.com
). Rooms go from about £120 to as much as £370 for a suite, and the pricier
rooms are extremely spacious and furnished with gorgeous antiques. Both have
good bars and restaurants. An affordable, comfortable, central three-star is
the Hotel Splendid (1 323 5444). Its somewhat spartan doubles start at £24.
Getting there: fly to Belgrade from Heathrow with JAT Airways (020 7629
2007, www.jatlondon.com ) or BA (0870
850 9850, www.ba.com ).
NEW YORK
Helen Yun
7pm Drink a toast to the setting of the sun and also to the Big Apple’s
inimitable skyline at the largest rooftop bar in the metropolis: 230 Fifth
(230 Fifth Avenue at 27th Street, 20th floor; 00 1-212 725 4300) gives you
the opportunity to combine excellent martinis (priced at £15 for two) with
jaw-dropping views of the Empire State and MetLife buildings.
9pm The most coveted table for two is at Vanity Fair editor Graydon
Carter’s exclusive supper club, the Waverly Inn (16 Bank Street at Waverly
Place; no phone; dinner £34 for two). But you’re unlikely to get in, so try
the 19-seat, Spanish-inflected Degustation (239 E 5th Street at Second
Avenue; 212 979 1012; £24 for two for dinner), a better bet for those who’d
rather be impressed by their food than by their neighbour.
11pm Fancy a gig? The Highline Ballroom (431 W 16th Street, between
Ninth and Tenth Avenues; 212 414 5994, www.highlineballroom.com
) has minimal decor, an impressive stage, state-of-the-art PA and a
commitment to cutting-edge music. It offers a truly varied mix of live acts,
readings and festivals, from David Bowie to James Blunt, via Moby or Kanye
West’s DJ, A-Trak.
1am It’s been hours since your last cocktail. There are some
meticulously crafted, and consequently highly potent, libations on offer at
B Flat (277 Church Street, between Franklin and White Streets; 212 219 2970;
£12 for two drinks). Once you’re buzzing, head for slick lounge APT (419 W
13th Street; 212 414 4245, www.aptwebsite.com
; £15 for two drinks). Excellent interior, cool bar staff and big-name DJs.
Where to sleep: on a newly trendy strip in the East Village, once lined
with flophouses, the recently opened Bowery Hotel (212 505 9100, www.theboweryhotel.com
) offers an opulent bar and chic restaurant, along with posh doubles
starting at £256. If you’d rather not blow all your cash on lodgings, try
the more modest but centrally located Pod Hotel (212 355 0300, www.thepodhotel.com
), where doubles cost £121 and up.
Getting there: airlines flying to New York include Virgin Atlantic
(0870 380 2007, www.virgin-atlantic.com
), BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com ),
Continental (0845 607 6760, www. continental.com) and American Airlines (020
7365 0777, www.americanairlines.co.uk
).
As a Belgrader, or shall I be faux-French and say: Belgradois, in China, I am glad the city that was bombed by the British less than a decade ago primarily thanks to the former British PM, one Anthony Blair, is on the list of party cities of not just Europe but the world made by a British paper.
However, I am not happy to see that the dull ugly (except obviously for the Duomo) Milan is on the list and the cozy (hyggelig) Copenhagen, flamboyant Barcelona, bi-continental biggest city of Europe, Istanbul, and enchanting Lisbon are not. You are not seriously suggesting that you can have nearly as much fun in Milan as you can in Barcelona and Constantinople, are you now?
As for smoking, even in China it is becoming a norm for people to control their nasty habit in many places, so I hope it will happen in Serbia soon too.
Miodrag, Nanning,
I am from Belgrade and I am a big fan of Berlin's clubbing. Berghain is great! Though, even in Mitte, when the night falls streets get pritty silent and kinda empty....It was strange to me, I expected more lively street atmosphere in night hours, but l I guess everybody was in clubs that are a bit away from the very center.
The smoking thing is true, but Paris is not much better (or worse, depending if you are smoker or not) in that respect:)
The one non smoking restaurant in Belgrade I know is Priroda (vegetarian place-that and non-smoking policy being the only advantages of the place, I must say), but next time you come, get Yellow Cab monthly city guide- there is a small section where they list non-smoking places in the city....very small section, though:)
Nadja, Belgrade,
I have lived a lot of different places in the world, lived in Bg from 2000 to 2004. It's by far the coolest city I have ever lived in, loved it so much. Best people, educated with a point of view, warm-hearted and fiery, best party-life EVER. LTJ Bukem himself said Bg was his favourite city to play in. Killed me that I had to go back to my own country.
For info on what's going on any given night go to chillout.co.yu and check the calendar.
Victoria, Stavanger, Norway
Jelena,
Quit crying about the smoking. This article isn' about smoking bans. If you don't like the smoke stay home or take up smoking.
Belgrade is unbelievable. The nightlife just drains me. So fun though. Berlin has the darkest feel to it.. and i love it!
Milan, Chicago, USA
I have visited all these cities mentioned above.Every city has smth. special but Belgrade is my favorite.City is beautiful, with special atmosphere,lot of nice places to visit,night life and food excellent,people extraordinary charming and beautiful in every meaning.
and EXIT is only half an hour far away.
Thank you Belgraders for your hospitality!
See you in May.
Leon, Paris, France
Belgrade and Berlin are my favorites. Haven't been in Big Apple yet, though. Berlin is very nice, lot of places to go out, paradice for techno freaks, BUT Belgrade is completly different than any other of the five: awesome girls, charming people, great food and unbeliavable hospitality of the locals. Great, will go again as soon as possible!
Marko, Berlin,
I enjoy spending time in Milan and Paris, however only Belgrade has shown that there is still place where you can feel free like a hippie and go crazy with Gen-X entertaintment.
Many cities I visited are turning into uptight-politically correct-emotionless places.
That's not the case with Belgrade.
Thank you Belgraders for your hospitality!
Nick R., Toronto, ON., Canada
When based in Budapest (Hungary), I would often go to Paris and Belgrade (Serbia). I agree with the suggestions for these 2 cities. I would recommend going to Paris in the fall and Belgrade in the summer (and visit East Europe's biggest outdoor music festival, called EXIT, in a neighbouring city). While Paris offers that sophistication that only the French can provide, Belgrade gives you that unique and amazing 'clash' of the modern/Western and East Euro 'ambiance' and cultures; quite a place for a get-away week-end.
Nick, Vancouver, Canada
I totally agree about the smoking comments regarding the Belgrade's scene from all the readers. In finer restaurants there are smoking sections but in cool cafes and clubs, you cannot leave without having that nasty ashtray smell attached to your skin, hair and clothes. Belgrade's big entertainment issue is also a lack of advertisement. Maybe it's cool, in a way, to have a word of mouth thing going, so only the chosen few will find out about the real special places to see, however, in DC, for instance, there are listings for even the 18th St Lounge in the papers (which is a legendary club that originally built its reputation via word of mouth). Finally, the clubs here are freakin' PACKED. You cannot move around once you get in. Still, the spirit of having fun which permeates trough Belgrade's streets is remarkable, intoxicating and utterly contagious. Come one, come all...
Filip, Belgrade,
Out of all the fancy places and fun things to do, what I miss the most is having a cup of good, strong coffee with my friends in the lazy afternoons. Serbs are definitely a coffee nation and it is good to know that in every cafe or restaurant no metter how fancy or how cheap it may be, you will alwyas be served a cup of proper, strong, good tasting coffee. Now, isn't that just comforting! Coffee to da people!
Maja, Bristol, USA
Belgrad is the first one. I have been many times and always i have been very hapy.
regrads
janez, Ljubljana , Slovenija
Belgrade does has many interesting places to visit at night, and it seems people are so in the mood for having fun it's just adorable.
Went there once and would like to came back :)
Dave, Chicago, USA
Also, Belgrade has the most beautifull girls on the world!! :)
Rade, Belgrade, Serbia
I would be very grateful if Irena from Belgrade would kindly provide a list of a few restaurants and bars in Belgrade that have non-smoking sections. I visit Belgrade about 3 times a year and haven't found such a place (with the exception of McDonalds, which is fully non-smoking, but not exactly classy). I would be delighted to spend time and money in such a place on my next visit in December. I must disagree with Irena though, smoking is not culture, it is a burden on the society and all efforts should be made to eradicate it. This will not be achieved in a society where a pack of cigarettes is sold for about £1! Nevertheless, the cafe-culture and nightlife really are pretty amazing in Belgrade. The best thing is that you won't see hoards of drunken young men and women vomiting on the streets or picking up fights like you get to see on the streets of UK cities and towns every single Friday and Saturday night. Still, how about that smoking ban sometime soon?
Jelena, Bristol, UK
what about bloody Miami!!!
nuff said...
Alex, Washington DC,
Belgrade is my favorit. I have visit this town several times in last few years and everytime I have great fun. Night life is totally crazy. You can spend 24 hours without sleep, just fun!
Chris, Berlin, Germany
in fact that Serbia had over 5 wars just in 90's, its understandable that a lot of things dont work as they should. after every disaster it took, Belgrade is such a beauty and i suggest to everyone to feel its pleasant atmosphere and great nightlife.
Marko, belgrade, serbia
Branka, IPANEMA is the best and Nikola is the best waiter in town!! No wonder it is here!! Great food and wine... and sweets...mmm...
p.s. can I have a free dinner now?!
Marina, Belgrade, Serbia
It just great, and the comment that it might be there in 10 years in completely ridiculous...Yes there is lot of smoking but its the culture...and there are non smoking sections in many bars and restaurants...
Everything else is just great, people are more than kind and most of the clubs, bars and restaurants have beautiful interior, gardens and of course beautiful people..
It is for sure place to check out at the moment and not in 10 yrs...
Irena, Belgrade, Serbia
Perhaps Belgrade has a decent nightlife, but this is heavily outweighed by the fact that practically everyone smokes everywhere. There is no such thing as a non-smoking section in Serbian bars and restaurants. How can anyone enjoy a night out whilst being exposed to toxic fumes? Is it really so much fun to come home after a night out with all your clothes, skin and hair smelling of smoke? How can this be acceptable and described as 'having a good time' when most of Europe has already banned smoking in all indoor public places? In my eyes Serbia still has a long way to go. And smoking indoors is only a minor thing. I will not even mention the lack of professionalism in the services sector (and everywhere else). But things are getting better every year, so I guess there is still hope. Give it 10 years and then maybe....
Jelena, Bristol, UK
Berlin is the best night out I've ever had!
Bev, London,
Yes, Belgrade is great at the momet. I live in Amsterdam, but often for business I go to Belgrade. Great food, restaurans,cafes, trendy people, city with charm and place for shoping. Lots of clubs, night bars and you can find any kind of entertainment. Excellent.
Linda, Amsterdam, Noord Holand
Thank You Tome Popper for mentioning our restaurant Ipanema from Belgrade. We are glad that you liked it. Next time you pop in ask for Aleksandar, the owner, and we`ll have dinner on us.
All the best from
Ipanema
Branka, Belgrade, Serbia