Chloe Gunn
We've made some changes
to The Sunday Times

USP Location, location, location! Spalmaris is a stylish oasis on the shore of one of Croatia’s most beautiful islands.
AMBIENCE Laid-back holiday fun. The languid spa pool is just metres from the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic, which beckon you in for a more bracing dip once you’ve been pampered to your heart's content. Inside, the spa is spotlessly clean and comfortable with treatment rooms, three whirlpool hot tubs, a sauna and solarium. Hotel rooms are airy and modern, mine had a seaward balcony with captivating views over the bay to a string of smaller islands beyond. The President of Croatia’s summer house is just next door so you’ll be in elevated company.
Hvar itself is one of Europe’s chicest holiday playgrounds. For centuries it’s been a summer retreat from soaring temperatures on the mainland and in the 19th century it started to be promoted as a health resort. Hvar Town is a delightful 20-minute walk along the coastal path from the hotel and an ideal spot to show off your newly scrubbed and buffed self. This is an island of beautiful people and their beautiful yachts and the pretty bars and restaurants in the old town are ideal for a spot of sunset people-watching.
QUALITY OF EXPERIENCE Hvar is famed for its fields of lavender and Spalmaris specialises in using local herbs in its products, which are mixed up by the therapists themselves. Being a bit of a Princess I decided to try out the Mediterranean Royal Pedicure, with a scrub made from lavender flower and sea salt, followed by an Afrodita orange facial. The quality of the lotions and potions was impressive, the quality of the service was not. My treatment room was brightly lit with the door left open so my surly Slavic therapist could chat with her colleagues while she worked and I had to ask for the hot tubs to be turned on, while the sauna was stone cold. Spalmaris looks like a great spa and the treatments on offer sound delicious, from the olive oil massage to the grape peel and chocolate wrap, but it needs to work harder on making guests feel special and not just privileged to be there.
FOOD Far more appetising than the spa. The hotel restaurant is on a terrace overlooking the sea and guests are treated to a sumptuous breakfast buffet including delicious fresh Croatian pastries. There’s an extensive lunch menu, including tasty local salads and fresh seafood, served straight to your sun lounger if desired.
IN CROWD Cosmopolitan Croatians and other Europeans in the know stopping off in their yachts for a spot of R&R before sailing into the sunset – it’s a hard life!
WALLET WATCH Slightly cheaper than UK prices with a 30-minute massage costing £25 and a full-body mask £45. There are different specials including free treatments on offer every week day. In high season a superior room with balcony is £135 a night, which includes breakfast and full use of spa facilities.
NEED TO KNOW Spalmaris spa at Hotel Podstine, Hvar, Croatia (+385 21
740 400; www.podstine.com)
Email: hotel@podstine.com
For more than 200 reviews of spas worldwide visit Times Online's Good Spa Guide
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