The hotel: location, location, location — it certainly adds a
big helping of wow factor to Michael and Wendy Vaughan’s very special North
Wales hide-away. Not that the full splendour of the Old Rectory’s position
overlooking the Conwy estuary hit me on arrival, because I turned up on a
murky night when nothing more dramatic than rainy flowerbeds showed up in
the headlights. My beams also picked up the figure of Michael, hurrying out
to welcome me and trundle my case indoors. How many hotel owners trouble
themselves to offer that kind of personal greeting — the little touch that
means so much? The tone of the Old Rec- tory is one of civilised “at
homeness” — if your home features polished panelling, old oil paintings,
vast Victorian prints and shelves of fine porcelain. Michael is very much
front-of-house, while Wendy stays behind the scenes tending her magic
porridge pots.
“Come down to the drawing room at 7.30 for an aperitif and some canapés,”
suggested Michael at my bedroom door. For a tired traveller, it sounded like
the best idea in the world. Indeed, Michael proved the most sensitive of
hosts, appearing by osmosis when I felt like a chat, disappearing whenever I
wanted to “do a Garbo”.
In the morning, drawing my bedroom curtains and looking out on a crisp sunny
morning, I saw what all the location fuss was about. Beautiful terraced
gardens sloped down towards the wide Conwy estuary, with the sea-going river
a sinuous curve of silver between gleaming mud banks. The towers of Edward
I’s Conwy Castle stood guard over the medieval walled town across the
estuary, backed by green mountains. A view to gawp at and gasp over.
Which room was that, then? It hardly matters — four of the
Old Rectory’s bedrooms have views of the Conwy estuary, the other two
overlook pretty gardens. All individually decorated, they’re just like the
rest of the house: stylish and slightly quirky. One has a vast wardrobe
rescued from a girls’ school, another boasts a great black four-poster with
a barley-sugar twist to the bedposts.
My bed had a fruity garland carved in the footboard and a half-tester dripping
with lace overhead. Apples glowed in a basket on the table, the television
was discreetly hidden in a corner cupboard, and offstage lurked the sort of
triangular bath in which Rita Hayworth would recline in strategically placed
soap suds and a scarlet smile.
What’s for dinner? There are no choices to make at the
Old Rectory — you eat what’s put in front of you, and fantastically good it
is, too. Cooks don’t gain three red rosettes, César awards and an Egon Ronay
star for nothing, and Wendy Vaughan — ably assisted by her culinary
henchman, Christopher Jones — swings a mean skillet.
Their repertoire includes such delights as spiced monkfish, confit of duck and
turbot in an ultrasmooth tomato sauce. My menu featured a starter of fillet
of cod on mustard and caper lentils with tiny cubes of potato that literally
melted in the mouth. Next up, a pungent and juicy rack of Conwy mountain
lamb (“From Evans the Butcher of Colwyn Bay,” Michael told me), with a patty
of leek and laver bread to complete the Welsh notes.
Three little puddings came on a pretty oblong dish — but by that stage, I
wasn’t really paying attention to the menu. Wendy could have served up an
old boot in estuary mud and I’d have trusted her skill and judgment. One
pudding was creamy and redolent of cardamom, one was a sorbet in a crispy
sort of shawl, and the third was hot and bitterly chocolatey. Next time I
eat a dinner as good as that, it’ll be in heaven.
I’ve itchy feet ... If you mean literally, you can
knock out those tickles on the North Wales Path from Conwy over the back of
Conwy Mountain to Penmaenmawr — eight miles of exhilarating walking with
views all the way and a return journey on the scenic coastal railway.
A half-hour hop in the car will put you in range of the ultimate North Walian
challenge, Mount Snowdon itself. For something gentler, stretch your lungs
on the huge, sandy beaches around Llandudno and Colwyn Bay, or take a short
but stunning stroll along Conwy’s medieval town walls.
Who will like it? Morning people. Wake up, look out of the
window, and all will seem right with the world.
Who won’t? Chef-botherers — Wendy keeps a low profile.
- The Old Rectory, in Llansanffraid Glan Conwy (01492 580611, www.oldrectorycountryhouse.co.uk),
has doubles from £199, including dinner and breakfast. The restaurant
is closed most Sundays and Mondays
