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I arrived at Porthmadog station, which lies a few miles west of Portmeirion,
suddenly aware that I had no idea how to reach this hotel. So I called them.
“Don’t worry, I’ll pick you up in the Daimler,” said Michael Bewick, who
together with Nick Golding, owns and runs this North Wales B&B, which
opened last month.
The house of Tan-Yr-Allt, which roughly translates as “under the wooded
cliff”, was built in 1800 and nestles close to a hillside overlooking
Glaslyn estuary. Its most famous inhabitant was the romantic poet Shelley,
who described it as “tasty enough for the villa of an Italian prince”.
However there’s no pomp inside, with a homely sitting room overlooking the
terrace and daffodil-strewn gardens. The bedroom featured a firm double bed,
desktop TV, various books and knick-knacks, with a modern slate bathroom
complete with underfloor heating and Molton Brown goodies. It was fantastic
after a long journey to relax in the reading chair, open the windows wide
and gaze at the view, listening to birdsong and the steam engine whistle of
the Welsh Highland Railway.
As always, dinner was taken en famille, around a large table with
fellow guests Margo, Neville, Beryl and John. Michael, the host, attended
with wine top-ups, local historical bons mots and food from Nick’s kitchen.
That night’s menu was bruschetta, stuffed quail, vegetables, chocolate mousse
and cheeses. I felt as if I were at a dinner party; conversational topics
included how to eat a primrose and the merits or otherwise of the Prime
Minister. It is a wonderfully social way to dine.
I was the first guest in the bedroom called Miss Hilda, and I couldn’t put it
better than Shelley, who wrote: “I arise from dreams of thee in the first
sweet sleep of night.”
Breakfast was another social three-course affair of yoghurts, fruits, cereals,
toast with homemade jams and a local sausage fry-up.
Michael and Nick are going to be busy, because Tan-Yr-Allt is a charming B&B
— just like staying at a friend’s house.
Bottom line: Shiraz Randeria paid £60 for a double B&B
room. Dinner, £26.
Access all areas: All six bedrooms are up the wide staircase.
Need to know: Tan-Yr-Allt, Tremadog, Porthmadog, Gwynedd
(01766 514545, www.tanyrallt.co.uk).
Room: 9 out of 10.
Food: 8 out of 10.
Service: 10 out of 10.
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