Why should I go? La Rioja is on a Hispanic high. Its wines languished
in backwatery obscurity during the 1980s – now they are de rigueur;
its cuisine is shedding humble Basque beginnings to give the
Michelin-starred stronghold of nearby San Sebastian a run for its money; and
– the most exciting aspect of the Riojan reinvention – there is a new wave
of stylish avant-garde architecture. International heavyweights such as
Frank Gehry, Santiago Calatrava and Zaha Hadid have punctuated the region’s
timeless vine-studded hills with Blade Runner-esque cathedrals to Bacchus
and the Basque.
What should I do? You’ll get your first fix of space-age design
immediately on landing at Bilbao airport. It was designed by Calatrava and
nicknamed The Dove because of its symmetrical “wings”.
From there, it’s a 90-minute drive to Rioja Alavesa, the province north of the
Ebro river, but detour first to see Gehry’s shimmering Guggenheim Museum (00
34-94 435 9080, www.guggenheim-bilbao.es;
£7.20). Right now, the sensuous curves are set off perfectly by the
exhibition inside: Richard Serra’s 14ft-high alleys of weathered steel. It’s
a sensational use of space.
By now, that Spanish sun will be giving you a thirst. Steep yourself in 10,000
years of viniculture at the state-of-the-art Museum of Wine (94 132 2323, www.dinastiavivanco.es;
£4.75), treasure hunting among the artefacts amassed by the Vivanco family.
Among the top finds are a 13th-century wine vessel from Mesopotamia and
Picasso’s Homage to Bacchus.
Next, spritz your wine with architectural verve at Bodegas Ysios (94 560 0640, www.domecqbodegas.com;
tour free) in Laguardia, where Calatrava took inspiration from a row of
barrels to create a sculpture that doubles as a working winery. Nearby is
Bodegas Baigorri (94 560 9420, www.bodegasbaigorri.com),
a glass and zinc cube perched on a hilltop by a local designer, Inaki
Aspiazu; while down the road in Haro, the Lopez de Heredia winery (94 131
0244, www.lopezdeheredia.com)
asked Zaha Hadid to conjure its unforgettable decanter-shaped tasting room
and shop.
Overindulgence is a danger here: protect against a cerebral version of the
noble rot with a stroll around Laguardia’s walled medieval streets. Don’t
miss the gloriously gothic Santa Maria church.
This being Spain, you’re never far from a funny-peculiar festival. Best is the
Haro Wine Battle (June 29), when locals douse each other with 60,000 litres
of cheap red plonk.
Where should I eat? The hottest plates hereabouts are filled by Francis
Paniego at El Portal de Echaurren (94 135 4047, www.echaurren.com) in
Ezcaray – he won the region’s first Michelin star for culinary curiosities
such as Iberian ham ice cream. Other rising stars are Jesus Saez Monge, at
Casa Toni (94 133 4001) in San Vincente de la Sonsierra; and Belen Garcia,
at Restaurante El Conde (94 133 8359) in Ollauri.
But who wants to sit when they can potear (stand side by side) with the
locals at the bar? Pintxos (the Basque word for tapas) taste especially
authentic in cutesy Laguardia, where bars such as Ansan and Biazteri are
populated by beret-wearing pensioners and melancholy middle-aged women
straight out of Pedro Almodovar. The best time is Sunday lunch, when patrones
parade their specialities: try rabos (squid rings), patatas (a potato
and chorizo concoction) and embuchados (fried lamb intestines). The
Spanish do love their entrails.
Where should I stay? The Marques de Riscal winery persuaded Gehry to
design its new £50m headquarters – and he delivered it giftwrapped in
extravagant swirls of purple and gold titanium ribbon, supported by sky-high
sandstone columns and spider legs of steel. Somewhere along the way, the
project morphed into a hotel (00 800 3254 5454,
www.starwoodhotels.com/luxury; doubles from £200, B&B). If you
don’t stay, make use of its Caudalie Vinothérapie
Spa, which features wine-based treatments such as merlot wraps and crushed
cabernet scrubs.
In Laguardia, try the honeystone Hotel Castillo el Collado (00 34-94 562 1200;
doubles from £85, room-only); or the stoutly traditional 19th-century winery
Antigua Bodega de Don Cosme Palacio (94 562 1195, www.habarcelo.es;
doubles from £50, room-only).
How do I get there? Fly to Bilbao with EasyJet (www.easy
jet.com) from Stansted; Iberia (0870 609 0500, www.iberia.com)
from Heathrow; or Aer Lingus (0818 365000, www.aerlingus.com)
from Dublin.
P&O (0870 598 0333, www.poferries.com)
has crossings from Portsmouth (about 30hr) from about £500, with a cabin,
for a car and two passengers.
The Marques de Riscal can arrange Mercedes hire through Transfer Rent (00 34
971 732680, www.transfer-rent.com)
from £63 per day. Or try Auto Europe (0800 358 1229, www.auto-europe.co.uk).
— Susan d’Arcy was a guest of the Marques de Riscal and Transfer Rent
