Annie Bennett
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From The Times
February 24, 2007
Valencia raises its sails
The city is getting ready to host the America's Cup this spring
Valencia owes a lot to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Back in 1851, it was Prince Albert who decided to bring a new type of schooner over from New York for the Great Exhibition. The yacht, called the America, took part in the All Nations Race at Cowes, beating 15 British vessels to win the 100 Guinea Cup, later renamed the America’s Cup. In an attempt to salvage British pride, Queen Victoria asked who came second, only to be given the reply: “Madam, there is no second.”
Now the most prestigious regatta in the sailing calendar, and one of the world’s most enduring sporting challenges, the America's Cup is still all about winning. For more than 150 years, the victorious team has hosted the next event, where teams from other countries are challenged to try to beat them. The last race, in New Zealand in 2003, was won by the Swiss boat Alinghi. As Switzerland has no coastline, a competition was held to find a suitable venue.
Valencia won because it met all the key requirements of reliable wind conditions and availability of a harbour, boosted by the city's passionate enthusiasm for organising the event. The races start in April, culminating in the final at the beginning of July, and there is already quite a buzz in the air on the streets of Valencia.
Although the America’s Cup lasts only about three months, the event will have a lasting effect on the city. Valencia is right on the Mediterranean, but the city centre is a few miles inland, cut off from the port. Like Barcelona before the development spurred by the 1992 Olympics, Valencia was said “to have its back to the sea”. The America’s Cup has led to the creation of a sparkling new marina in the old port, now called Port America’s Cup, with new public transport links to the centre, as well as the mushrooming of hotels around the marina and along the adjacent beach.
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But all this is just the latest phase of an urban development scheme that has been under way for more than a decade, transforming Valencia from what was, frankly, a rather gloomy regional capital into a bright, modern Mediterranean city. These days, Spain’s third city is all about pavement cafés, chic restaurants and cool boutiques. And, of course, the beach is a short ride away on the metro, bus or tram. Sound a bit like Barcelona? You bet. And like the Catalan capital, it has some pretty astounding Art Nouveau architecture, too.
I have been visiting Valencia regularly for the past ten years, witnessing each stage of its renaissance, but I am still knocked sideways every time I see the City of Arts and Sciences, the spectacular complex designed by Santiago Calatrava, an architect of worldwide renown, who was born in Valencia.
The latest part to open is the Palau de les Arts opera house, the signature edifice of the whole scheme. Like the planetarium, science museum and aquarium that make up the rest of the complex, this building is a riot of chevrons and parabolic arches, all clad in glittering fragments of white tile.
Anyone who has been to Barcelona will recognise these features as characteristic of the work of the great architect Antoni Gaudí. Shaped like a cross between a cycling helmet and a cruise liner, with a fishbone sculpture arching over the top and a ramp swooping up to the entrance, the Palau de les Arts is about as dramatic as it gets.
The pin-sharp acoustics and technology make it an ideal venue to stage opera. In a minimalist white room with panoramic windows, I talked to Helga Schmidt, previously artistic director at Covent Garden in London and now obviously enjoying her new job here. “This building is all about light and space, so I want to get away from the heavy scenery usually associated with opera and give the performances a more modern, cleaner look, even with zarzuela, the traditional Spanish form of operetta. People seem to like the results, and we are having to put on extra performances.”
The City of Arts and Sciences stretches along a huge swath of land reclaimed from the course of the River Turia, which was rerouted away from the city after devastating floods half a century ago. Part of the land has been used to create a new park, providing a much-needed green belt. Eventually it will extend down to the sea, linking Port America’s Cup with the city centre.
Back in town, I had a mooch around the Central Market, a vast ironwork structure that is also undergoing restoration. Inside, the domes of the roof are decorated with tiles featuring oranges, for the last century the mainstay of the Valencian economy. The stalls were piled with vivid displays of the fruit and vegetables grown in the market gardens around the city.
Shoppers were filling their baskets with fragrant strawberries, out this year a few weeks earlier than usual, soon to be followed by peaches, apricots and nectarines. Spring is always a colourful time in Valencia, but the events this year promise to make it more vibrant than ever.
After a hard day on the water...
The America’s Cup (www.americascup.com) runs from April 3 to July 7.
What else to do:
The City of Arts and Sciences comprises the PrÍncipe Felipe Science Museum, with interactive temporary and permanent exhibits; the Hemisfãric planetarium, and the Oceanogràfic aquarium (www.cac.es).
Palau de les Arts (www.lesarts.com) spring programme includes works by Verdi and Wagner.
Museum of Fine Arts (www.cult.gva.es/mbav) has the most important art collections in Spain after the Prado.
Balneario La Alameda (www.terma europa.com) is a new spa in a converted Art Nouveau building with thermal baths and treatments.
Where to stay:
Las Arenas (00 34 963 120600, www.hotel-lasarenas.com): five-star luxury hotel overlooking the beach and alongside Port America’s Cup. Vast outdoor pool, lavish spa and a bar packed with glamorous yachties. Doubles from £210.
Marina Atarazanas (203010, www.room-matehoteles.com ): chic, minimalist, mid-range hotel opposite Port America’s Cup. Doubles from £60.
Antigua Morellana (915773, www.hostalam.com): great location in the heart of the old town. Simple but stylish with all the basics and none of the frills. Doubles £35.
Where to eat:
Bodega Casa Montaña. Wonderful old bar where the owner, Emiliano GarcÍa, looks for the best produce to create tasty traditional tapas. Huge range of wines; £15-£20 for a selection of tapas and wine. Calle José Benlliure 69, 672314, www.emiliano bodega.com.
La Pepica. A much-loved Valencia institution, serving fabulous paellas and fish. A favourite of Ernest Hemingway when it was just a shack on the beach, these days it is a vast restaurant but always seems to be packed; £20 for three courses and wine. Paseo de Neptuno 2-6, 710366.
Ocho y Medio. On a tiny square in the old town, this looks like a bar at ground level, but upstairs you find yourself in a chic yet informal restaurant with open-brick walls. Fresh Mediterranean cuisine and friendly service; £20-£25 for three courses with wine. Plaza Lope de Vega 5, 922022.
Getting there: EasyJet (0905 8210905 — 65p a minute, www.easyjet.com) flies from Gatwick, Stansted and Bristol.
Getting around: The Valencia Tourist Card (www.valenciatouristcard.com) allows unlimited travel on public transport, with discounts at selected museums, attractions, shops and restaurants. Available for one, two or three days from £5-£10.
Further information: Valencia Tourist Board (www.turisvalencia.es).
