Lisbon sprawls prettily over seven hills, which is great for character, but not so good for tired legs. Worry not, though. It’s also home to some of Europe’s most charismatic transport solutions – including a vintage tram network.

The best route by far is No 28, which trundles across four of the seven summits.

A clear run would take about 45 minutes, but stops are frequent. You’ll get used to the thring-thring of the bell, alerting cars and people to move from the track. On my last trip, we even stopped to retrieve an old lady’s keys, dropped between rail and road.

The start: Basilica da Estrela From the basilica’s hilltop vantage, the huge white dome overlooks western Lisbon. Opposite is the Jardim da Estrela and beyond it the romantically crammed English Cemetery, resting place of Henry Fielding.

Between church and park, board a 28 heading for Largo Martim Moniz. After a swerve to the right, it dips along a narrow street, then skims past Bairro Alto, a bar-hopping honey pot, before Luis de Camoes park, fringed with swish shops, heralds the ritzy Chiado district.

A little way past the parliament building, the tram performs a wheel-screeching left-hander before plunging down to the flatness of Baixa, reconstructed on a grid pattern after the earthquake of 1755.

First stop: Praca do Comercio Get off at the next stop, turn right along Rua Augusta and walk through the triumphal arch onto the magnificent square of Praca do Comercio. Approaching the vast statue from behind, the bevy of backsides are, from left to right, an elephant, Dom Jose I and his horse, and Pegasus.

Second stop: Se It’s a short trundle uphill to the front door of the Se cathedral. Get off for a look at the scintillating stained-glass window, then lunch further up the track at Senhora Mae (Largo de Sao Martinho 6-7), which serves Portuguese favourites in large portions; from £6.

Then take another 28, or walk, to Santa Luzia church, for stunning views over the ramshackle roofs of the Alfama district – the fulcrum of fado.

If you can tear yourself away, follow the signs to the Castelo de Sao Jorge. The esplanade has cannons, crenellations and sweeping views over the city. Grab an outside table and an evening drink at the surprisingly good castle restaurant.

The finish: Graca Jump back on for the best sunset spot in town, at Graca. Leap off at the triangle of trees; to the left are two little cafes where laid-back lisboetas go for their sundowners.

Details: a single ticket, bought from the driver, costs 90p. The Colinas card costs £2.55 for five journeys or £4.80 for 10. A LisboaCard (from tourist offices or newspaper kiosks; www.askmelisboa.com) gives unlimited public transport and entry to museums, sights and galleries; £18pp for two days.

Richard Green travelled as a guest of Monarch Airlines (0870 040 5040, www.flymonarch.com) and Heritage Hotels (www.heritage.pt)

Times recommends

• First test of the world’s newest theme park
• My hols: Moby
• It's Armani v Versace in Dubai