FROM THE AIRPORT

British Airways, easyJet, bmi British Midland and Alitalia all fly to Marco Polo airport, Venice’s main runway on the edge of the lagoon, from where you can travel by ordinary bus (70p to £2.10), a slow water-bus (£7) or, for the luxury option, a water taxi (£56); Ryanair flies to Treviso, 30km away, from where a bus goes to Venice bus station (the one hour trip costs £3.15).

WAYS TO STAY

Moors…
At the luxury end of the market, the Danieli, near St Mark’s, offers old-world sumptuousness, from its exuberant Moorish entrance hall upwards. But it is the old half of the hotel that is truly magnificent. Impeccable service. Rooms looking out on the lagoon have excellent views along the waterfront and across to San Giorgio.
Doubles in the old part from £490 (Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4196, www.luxurycollection.com/danieli)

Moorings…
The Accademia Villa Maravege is a mid-price three-star in a seventeenth century villa close to the Accademia in a peaceful location with large, cool gardens to relax in; the pensione has its own mooring with a tantalising glimpse of the grand canal. Efficient, warm-hearted staff.
Doubles from £126 (Fondamenta Bollani, Dorsoduro 1058, www.pensioneaccademia.it)

More for less…
A cheaper option is the Bernardi Semenzato a very friendly two star near the Ca dOro in Cannaregio, handy for the Grand Canal. English-speaking staff can give advice on where to go. Also has some cheaper rooms with shared bathrooms and singles for those on a very tight budget. The annexe round the corner has a/c.
Doubles from £49 (Calle dell’Oca 4366, www.hotelbernardi.com)

More moorings…
The cheapest place of all is the marina behind San Giorgio Maggiore – you can get a berth at a mere £7 a night, which for, say, four people, is incredibly cheap. All you need is a yacht.

THE BEST DINERS IN TOWN

Venice used to have the reputation for being a gourmet’s nightmare, but its food has improved remarkably, and all three choices here have innovative menus.

Freshest fish in town
For top of the range, Al Covo, located in a backwater in Castello, has a consistently good reputation in the city, partly because it makes no use of frozen or farmed fish. Closed Wed & Thurs. No credit cards. Expensive – more than £35 per head for two courses and wine. For better value go for the set menu at Sunday lunchtime.
Campiello della Pescaria 3968, Tel: 522 3812

Local colour
More moderately priced is the small La Bitta in Dorsoduro, one of several good eateries down this alleyway. Marcellino runs the kitchen while his wife Debora serves and cajoles the guests, offering expert guidance on a menu – unusually for Venice, it includes no fish – and on the impressive wine and grappa list. Closed Sun. No smoking. No credit cards. Moderate – £21 per head.
Calle Lunga S. Barnaba 2753a, Tel: 523 0531

Casual canalside dining
Bancogiro is a popular small brick-vaulted restaurant-cum-bar, at the foot of the Rialto bridge by the Grand Canal. Excellent food at the canalside tables – or just sip a glass of wine as the boats go by. Closed Sun eve & Mon. Moderate – £14 per head.
Sottoportego del Banco Giro 122

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