Sardinia has some of the world’s most idyllic beaches. Mile upon mile of
pearly-white sands dip into waters of dazzling shades of aquamarine and
emerald green. Elsewhere, rugged cliffs plunge into the sea and tiny coves
and picturesque harbours beg to be explored. The waters really are
swimming-pool-blue — and the sandy coves are often deserted.
Locals says that God created Sardinia by stepping on it with his sandal — and
‘Sandalyon’ (sandal) was the ancient name given to it by the Greeks and
Phoenicians. The coastline of almost 1250 miles (2000 km) equates with a
quarter of the total Italian coast, indented by tiny coves and picturesque
harbours.
Equidistant between the Italian and North African mainlands, Sardinia has
always had a distinctive off-shore character. This second-largest island in
the Mediterranean (after Sicily) was described by DH Lawrence as ‘lost
between Europe and Africa and belonging to nowhere’, but in high season it
is notorious as the HQ of the star-spangled set and their attendant
paparazzi on the Costa Smeralda.
For many the ‘Emerald Coast’ is the reason that Sardinia is famous and this is
the siren of the beaches. But it remained very neglected until the 1960s
when a certain sailor, Prince Karim Aga Khan IV, dropped anchor here during
a storm. When the skies cleared he was spellbound by the translucent sea and
romantic little coves and decided to turn it into one of the most élitist
resort in the Mediterranean. But this is only a tiny area of the island’s
treasure trove of beaches.
Great swathes of coast remain uninhabited with pines, juniper and prickly
pears encircling sandy beaches, sea and granite rocks — just as the Costa
Smeralda once was. Paradoxically, for the Sardinians the sea was
traditionally synonymous with those who came to plunder – ‘furat chi beit
dae su mare’ (‘he who comes from the sea comes to rob’).
Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Catalans, mainland Italians and droves of tourists
have all left their mark. But the President of Sardinia, Renato Soru, has
made it his task to protect the coastline and the islanders’ traditions and
customs from the modern plunderers. His first act was to freeze all building
within two kilometres (1.25 miles) of the coast.
Everywhere you go in the Med’s answer to the Caribbean a thick mantle of
aromatic herbs, ‘macchia’ (Mediterranean maquis), covers the land and
perfumes the air. From top to toe of this ‘sandal’ each area of coast has
its own gems. Some are reached by little more than mule tracks, others by
car or boat.
1 Spiaggia della Pelosa (Northwest)
Guarded by a Spanish watchtower, La Pelosa is on a headland near Stintino — at
the northwestern tip of Sardinia. Flour-fine white sand is lapped by
crystalline shallow water in every shade of turquoise and hue of electric
blue. Yes, it’s busy in high season, especially with preening Italians who
like their beaches sociable.
Drink in the views across to the tiny speck of Piana island and its bigger
sister, Asinara — now a national park — but once the site of a high-security
jail where bandits and Mafiosi were confined. ‘Asinara’ is named after the
island’s unique population of miniature albino donkeys. They, along with
falcons, pigs, goats and mouflons (wild sheep) are the only inhabitants on
10-mile long ‘Donkey Island’. The white sandy beaches are beautiful and they
are uncrowded as the Parco Nazionale regulates access.
Reach the beach
Spiaggia della Pelosa is one mile north of Stintino with a car park which
fills up quickly in high season. Visits are permitted on organised boat
tours to Asinara Parco Nazionale.
Went to Sardinia almost by accident in 2003 and discovered the unique village of San Pantaleo (15 km from Olbia, on the edge of Costa Smeralda).
We now own 2 apartments in the village and spend as long as we can there. Emerald sea - unspoilt beaches - friendly village - heaven! Martin, Guildford
Martin Peel, Guildford, UK
Loved last years holiday to Brill Sardinia, beaches you thought you could only dream of! Returning this year 2008, cannot wait!
Andrew, Tewkesbury, England
Fantastic sardinia , dreams beachs .. only 2 hours for uk.
i love this place.
robert, middlesbrough, england
Born in England I have now lived in Sardinia for 40 years and can only say that Sardinia is indeed as breathtakingingly beautiful as described.. When I came it was virtually only known to the jet set, but now low cost flights have made it possible for anybody to visit and appreciate its beauty.
roberta, sassari, Italy
Have just returned from my honeymoon in Sardinia - even in cloudy weather the rugged scenery inland was amazing. Driving along the coast (we were based in the south of the island), we discovered long stretches of white sandy beaches that could have come out of a postcard. Will definitely return!
DC, Malta, Malta
Thanks for this wonderful article. I live here and I know perfectly that in the article nothing is invented or overexaggerated.
we must thank Renato Soru and his policy. He saved our coasts!
lucia, Cagliari, Italy
I have been there (Cala Luna, Cala Gonone) and I can only confirm what has been written is this excellent article. Places so beautiful as crafted by the hands of a Greek God. A must-see place that must also be carefully preserved and protected.
Luca, Beijing, China
Wonderfully comprehensive, wonderfully written
Robert Hendrie Wilson, Bedford, Great Brfitain