Summer is a great time to be in Ravello, sitting 350 metres above the sea, a tiny, lofty, pretty town. Car-free lanes span out from the piazza, giving escape routes from the coach parties that arrive for whistlestop tours in the middle of the day.
Before they arrive, wander past the elegant palaces of its medieval heyday, where D. H. Lawrence, E. M. Forster, André Gide and other authors found the peace to write (plaques mark the places). Visit the 12th-century cathedral with its mosaicked pulpits, sit on a bench in the Princepessa di Piemonte viewpoint, watching the mist burn off the valley below.
After lunch, a siesta is the agreeable alternative while day-trippers plod around in the heat. Emerge at 6pm to stroll the stepped lanes to the gardens of Villa Cimbrone (entry £3.40, open 9am-8.30pm), laid out by Lord Grimthorpe 100 years ago. The central avenue leads to the Terrace of Infinity, guarded by Roman busts, with endless views of the Gulf of Salerno.
Pop down the steps to the “tea rooms” to order an aperitif to sip in front of another astounding view before the walk back for dinner.
WHAT ELSE?
The Ravello Festival (details on www.ravellofestival.com) of music, art, films and other events is in full swing until the end of August (then chamber music September to October). The main music venue is the garden of the Gothic Villa Rufolo, where Wagner wrote Parsifal.
The stage is perched over the sea, providing a magical backdrop as dusk turns to starry night. The programme includes classical, contemporary, jazz and film music. Box office in via Roma (00 39 089 858422). Tickets £3.40-£34.
Pick up a walking map from the tourist office for the walk down to Amalfi, which takes a leisurely 90 minutes. The route on ancient stepped paths through lemon groves crosses the road only once, and has stunning views of the Dragone valley.
WHERE TO STAY
The five-star Hotel Palumbo (857244, www.hotelpalumbo.it), with just 21 rooms and suites, is the best hotel in town. Occupying a palazzo with 12th-century origins, it is luxurious but not glitzy. Airy rooms with balconies have linen sheets and 17th-century art and antiques. B&B doubles from £330. Annexe doubles from £180.
The three-star Hotel Toro (857211, www.hoteltoro.it), right by the piazza, has no view, but a large, restful garden. B&B doubles £72.
The two-star Hotel Villa Amore (857135), up a narrow alley near Villa Cimbrone, is the budget option with a priceless view. B&B doubles from £55.
FOOD AND FUN
For a romantic dinner or long, lazy lunch, Confalone, the frescoed restaurant at the Palumbo, offers delicate dishes and Episcopiolabel superior house wines: £50 per head for three courses (excluding drinks).
The shady terrace of Villa Maria (857255) is a lovely lunch spot, using ingredients from its own farm: £25 a head for two courses with wine.
Cumpa Cosimo (857156) in via Roma, and Vittoria’s (857947), just off the piazza, are open late for after-concert supper; pizzas and pasta from £7.
NEED TO KNOW
Harlequin Worldwide Travel (01708 850300, www.harlequinholidays.com) offers three nights’ half board at Hotel Palumbo from £885pp. The price includes return BA flights to Naples and private transfers. British Airways (0870 8509850, www.ba.com) offers return flights from Gatwick to Naples from £69. EasyJet (0871 7500100, www.easyjet.com) offers returns from Stansted or Gatwick from £51. A taxi from Naples airport to Ravello costs £90. Ravello tourist office, Piazza Duomo (00 39 089 857096, www.ravellotime.it).
Guidebook: Naples, Capri, Sorrento & the Amalfi Coast (Time Out, £11.99).
