There is a real sense of life and genuine zest to Dublin. We may be regarded as Europe's leading cosmopolitan city but the most striking and endearing qualities of the Irish still remain. After visiting Ireland you'll know what I'm talking about. The French call it the "joie de vivre", for us it's the "craic", either way the Irish know how to enjoy themselves and not take life too seriously.

What is immediately apparent is there's no shortage of fantastic pubs, clubs, cafés and restaurants oozing out of every street. The good news is you'll be spoilt for choice, the tricky part is finding the right one. I've included a list of places that should tickle your taste buds, tipple your glass and keep you on your toes well into the wee hours of the morning.

Daytime

Whether you're in Dublin to shop or just to wonder around the city, there are several cafés to whisk you off the streets, with delicious, lingering smells and warming dishes.

Avoca Café is an oasis to refresh and energize. It's a great start to you day - you'll not only come away grinning with satisfaction after a sumptuous snack but you'll probably be carrying a bag filled with treats from the mouth watering food hall and the Avoca department store. The soup is divine, the cakes delicious and the shopping experience is memorable.

Fresh is located in Powerscourt Townhouse which is a speciality shopping centre set in an elegant Georgian house just off Grafton Street. If you're a vegetarian or enjoy healthy organic food then Fresh is refreshing. The natural wooden interior located on the top floor of the centre has an airy, cosy atmosphere, which boasts simple design and cuisine. They list exactly what goes into the dishes and be assured - if it wasn't made fresh that morning then you won't be eating it. Ideal for light meals, healthy juices, and herbal teas.

The Kilkenny Design Café across from Trinity College is located above the renowned Kilkenny shop, famous for its collections of pottery, ceramics, jewellery and contemporary clothing from leading Irish designers. The shop and café resonate a distinct Irish feel, serving scrumptious traditional dishes such as smoked salmon on fresh brown bread with varieties of Irish cheeses - all served on authentic Irish pottery with a steaming pot of tea. With the irresistible display of Irish crafts and various delights you'll stay longer then expected, and find things you didn't even know you were looking for.

The Clarendon is a stylish and sophisticated bar that serves contemporary food in comfortable classy surroundings with cosy sofas, charming wicker chairs and a quality wine list. The problem being you may see yourself sipping past lunchtime into early evening. Try the restaurant-standard food in a pub environment with highlights including risotto of crab, asparagus with squid, cod with chunky chips and sirloin steak with bernaise sauce. A favourite of mine to go with friends - you can have a great chat on comfy seats and you don't have to shout to be heard. The most surprising part is that although it is one of Dublin more trendy bars you won't be shocked by the lunch bill, which means no guilt for ordering that extra bottle of wine.

Those of you familiar with Dublin will know the famous Bewely's Café on Grafton Street. Unfortunately it no longer remains but has been replaced by Café Bar Deli. I'm happy to report the new café has retained the style and elegance of the building with the vast ceilings, stained glass and spiral staircase still in full glory. The Mediterranean-style food has a great selection of starters, salads, pizzas and pasta that offers good grub in a bustling environment at great prices. If fish is your fancy then Mackerel, located in the same building, offers a more intimate dining experience with simple fresh fish and a seductive wine list. The balcony affords great views of Grafton Street in Summer.

Pubs and bars

As the Irish saying goes: "Ah, sure the craic was mighty!", and there's no shortage of pubs to experience this in. With the no-smoking laws the first thing you'll notice are the huddles of people puffing away outside most bars. Forget those dodgy chat up lines, most matches now occur outside the bar when people leave their friends to have a cigarette. So the only thing you'll need is a lighter!

They don't get better then Whelan's. It hasn't changed much over the years and is the hub of music, unrivalled for the quality of gigs and pints served. The classic old style interior with rickety wooden seating, rough bar, low lighting and fading pictures is a good antidote to the overtly stylish cosmopolitan bars most cities have. The newspapers give listings of gigs but it's worth checking the website in advance to make sure you don't miss out. You probably won't rub shoulders with Bono but you may spot Damien Rice or Paddy Casey. If you haven't heard of them you soon will.

The Globe is a favourite Sunday night haunt of mine, located just of Georges street - you can't miss it. It's regarded as one of the city's trendy hot spots. It has that hip, funky fashionable feel where nobody tries too hard but everyone looks good. Sunday sounds are mainly live jazz but it heats up later with some funky tunes that will see you doing more then just chair dancing. It also serves decent bar snacks to fill the gap.

A visit to Dublin can only be enriched by a drink in Keoghs - they serve a cracking Guinness in a snug area and a bell to call for pints. It just doesn't get any better, perfect for Sunday lounging by the blazing fire. The music is more likely to come from the piano or a guy playing in the corner. They make a point of not having piped music so if it's a good old fashioned sing along your after, this will be your best bet.

If it's the sights of the city you're seeking then the Gravity bar will open your eyes and fill your mouth at the same time. Located in the Guinness Storehouse it's worth skipping through the tourist tour to the top where the city awaits you. Designed with a pint of Guinness in mind the gravity bar certainly serves up well with the perfect head. The circular bar made of glass overlooks the sprawling city. You may learn more then you intended about Guinness but with pint in hand and incredible views who cares.

Johnnie Fox's is Ireland oldest, highest and most traditional pub located in Glencullen Co. Wicklow. This pub is not in the city centre and the only tricky part is getting to and from it. The best option is to get a taxi or public transport up, and taxi back. I wouldn't advise driving - once you're there you'll know why. There's the option to staying overnight if you really can't get enough of the place. With sea food so fresh it bites back and show nights like 'The Hooley Night" it's unmissable. The first of many things you'll notice about this pub is the old fashioned bus outside that's been transformed into a smoker's haven. Once inside it's a time warp to your grannies kitchen with open fire, country kitchen-style restaurant and old photos and random objects scattered everywhere. It's like sitting in a treasure trove.

Restaurants

My favourite part of going away is eating out, the hardest decision of the day is which one to choose. We may not be as big as other European cities but we do boast a bursting bunch of brilliant restaurants.

The 101 Talbot is like a fine wine - until you've tasted it you can't begin to appreciate the quality. With the Abbey and Gate Theatre minutes away you truly can have an enlightening evening of exquisitely crafted cuisine and captivating theatre. The Mediterranean style food, versatile menu and contemporary paintings by local artists set this vibrant restaurant alight. They wrap the evening up perfectly by not only delivering your theatre tickets to your table, but by welcoming you back for desert after the show. A complete cultural quest.

Located beside the Olympia Theatre on Dame Street the Mermaid Café is simply superb. Every time I walk through the door I smile with anticipation. The open kitchen and crafted wooden dinning room is cocooned by two glass sides looking out onto the bustling street. The menu is Mid-Atlantic, France meets east coast America with dishes ranging from cassoulet to succulent sea bass and homemade pecan pie. The food is bursting with natural flavours - not surprising when the restaurant's ethic is "take the best ingredients, then don't mess them up".

Eden restaurant overlooking Meeting House Square in Temple Bar should be on everyone's list of great places to eat. The bright, spacious interior, energetic staff and bubbly bellini cocktails have always lured me back for more. This is a fantastic restaurant for lunch or dinner and in summer they show films outdoor in the square, which you can enjoy from the terrace while sipping cocktails. The difficulty is picking the dishes - personally I'd highly recommend the smokies for starters. Book in advance if possible as they tend to be busy nearly all the time. The only other caution I'd give is that the cocktails are far too tasty and go down easily so keep man eye on the bill.

L'Gueuleton is the latest craze in French bistros on the Dublin restaurant scene. It's smart, sassy and relaxed all at the same time. With an impressive food and wine list it's no surprise people are queuing outside for a table. The chef delves into all aspects of French cuisine to master true culinary classics from snails to sirloin, foie gras to Challans duck with sweetened chicory. For a desert worth talking about try the chocolate beetroot brownie. All dishes are impressively presented and reasonably priced. As they don't take reservations go early to guarantee a table, and if left waiting pop into Hogan's next door for a chilled bar with mellow lighting and enlivening atmosphere.

For a leisurely Sunday brunch in a hip, retro-styled environment wonder into Odessa restaurant just off Dame street. A buzzing atmosphere awaits, with tasty bites, friendly staff and a cocktail wizard for a barman. Simple food, swift service and a damn good Mohito never disappoints. The recently opened Odessa club serves late food in a sophisticated members bar with low key atmosphere and ultra trendy décor. The last time I checked you needed to be a member but that may have changed.

Clubland

Ri Ra at the back of the Globe is owned by the same people and with a similar vibe and later opening hours it's one of Dublin's trendier clubs, with hip, trendy, fun and funky beats. It's got the right mix of music, people décor and opening hours to keep you moving until morning. If dancing isn't your thing then challenge whoever you can find to a game of fooze ball, you'll be placing bets and forming teams before the night's out. Also a good bet on weeknights for some lively fun - check out 'strictly handbag' and you'll get the idea.

Spy and Wax is a sleek-styled contemporary bar and club set in the beautiful Georgian buildings of Powerscourt Townhouse. With high ceilings, chandeliers and marble fireplaces it has a distinctive character and chic, glitzy essence. Spy upstairs is a boutique club and bar with four independent but interconnecting Georgian rooms, each with its own distinctive design and feel. The lavish surroundings and low-key lighting has an indulgent but relaxed atmosphere. The clincher for me is the deliriously divine passion fruit vodka cocktails. I've had craving for these sweet sensations that just tingle in your mouth. If you make it before 9pm on Fridays they're only £5. To extend the night slip downstairs to Wax nightclub with its tunnel rooms and dance beats from top-drawer DJs such as Jacques Lu Cont.

The Pod nightclub on Harcourt Street, by award-winning designer Ron McCullock, is offbeat while retaining an essence of the historic building it's situated in. It has recently undergone a revamp and now boasts a plush new VIP lounge. Different rooms offer everything from live gigs to dance DJ's working the crowd so there's something for everyone. The smoking area outside, with seating and heaters, can become a party and offers a refuge from the heaving dance floor. Don't forget your lighter!

The Village on Camden Street is nestled between Whelan's and other great gig venues and bars with arty genuine people who appreciate good music and know how to party. Upstairs hosts bands like Magic Numbers in an intimate venue while downstairs the decent DJ's keep the crowd bopping. After 11pm upstairs turns clubbier and opens late. Camden street is generally a good area to hang out in.

I couldn't give a guide to Dublin clubs without mentioning Lillies Bordello at the bottom of Grafton Street. If it's glamorous stars you're seeking then look no further, but bear in mind what you're likely to find is soap actors from Fair City, boy band wannabees and maybe the odd TV presenter - not to mention a couple of rugby players and weary radio jocks. It's good for a late drink and if you're into that kind of thing then be my guest. Just don't say you weren't warned!

Hotels

The Harcourt Hotel, once the home of George Bernard Shaw, is centrally located and boasts simple, comfortable, affordable accommodation in neighbouring Georgian townhouses. The downstairs sports bar and club is complemented by a massive, well-lit and decorated garden for the smokers.

The Pembroke Townhouse just off Baggot street is tucked away in a beautiful Georgian house a brisk walk from the city centre. The tree-lined road is surrounded by superb restaurants and bars as you head towards town. Try Ely Place for a wicked wine bar and the Pearl Brassiere for Dublin's finest seafood in secluded settings. The rates are competitive and cheaper than in the centre. A rare find and worth a look, and if rugby's your game Lansdowne Road Stadium is minutes away. Doubles from £70

The Morrison is probably the chicest, most luxurious and modern city centre hotel. Designed by John Rocha, the high ceilings, white walls and original art work, with stone floors and lavish furnishings breathes calm cool elegance into its guests. The rooms are spacious, luscious and finely finished with views of the River Liffey and Dublin centre. The four star restaurant has silver service staff without the stiffness and offers award-winning food in unique surroundings. They have a black pepper ice cream and frog leg started for the adventurous dinner. If you're staying there on a Saturday you have to check out the organic market across the bridge in Temple Bar Meeting House Square. The smells alone will drag you out of bed to sample real home-cooked organic food that you can eat while strolling through the market. If you've gone that far walk a little further into Temple Bar for Cow's Lane designer fashion market on Saturdays only to sample real cutting edge Irish talent. Doubles from £200

The Morgan, located in Fleet Street, Temple Bar Dublin is for people who want something a little different. The minimalist décor, sophisticated rooms and cosmopolitan ambience, are what make this hotel so attractive to city slickers. Think understated elegance with comfort and class. Located in the hub of Temple Bar, you're minutes from the shopping streets and busy bars. My only caution is that you're in the thick of tourist town so beware of loud boozy lads if coming back late at night. The stylish bar and kitchen will cater for whatever your desires are but remember as soon as you step outside you'll be spoilt for choice. Doubles start at £130 on weekend offers

Café's

Avoca
11-13 Suffolk Street
Dublin 2
Tel: +353 1 6726019

Kilkenny Design Café
5/6 Nassau street
Dunlin 2
Tel: +353 1 6777075

Clarendon Bar
4 Chatham Row
Dublin 2
Tel: + 353 1 6792909

Café Bar Deli
Bewley's Café
Grafton Street
Dublin 2
www.cafebardeli.ie

Fresh Café
Top Floor, Powerscourt Townhouse
South William Street
Dublin 2
Tel: +353 1 6719669
www.cafe-fresh.com

Pubs

Whelan's
Wexford Street
Dublin 2
www.whelanslive.com

Globe
11 South Great Georges Street
Dublin 2
Tel: +353 1 6711220

Keoghs
St Anne Street,
Off Grafton Street
Dublin 2

Gravity Bar
Guinness Storehouse
www.guinness-storehouse.com

Johnnie Fox's
Glencullen
Co.Dublin
Tel: +353 1 2955647
www.jfp.ie

Nightclubs

Ri Ra
Dame Court
Dublin 2
Tel: + 353 1 6711220
www.rira.ie

Spy & Wax
Powerscourt Townhouse
South William Street
Dublin 2
Tel: + 353 1 6770014
www.spydublin.com

Pod
Harcourt Street
Dublin 2
Tel: + 353 1 4780225
www.pod.ie

The Village
26 Wexford Street
Dublin 2
Tel: + 353 1 4758555
www.thevillagevenue.ie

Lillies Bordello
Bottom Of Grafton Street
www.lilliesbordello.ie

Restaurants

101 Talbot
100-102
Talbot Street
Dublin 1
Tel: +353 1 8745011
www.talbot.com

Mermaid Café
69/70 Dame Street
Dublin 2
Tel: 6708236
www.mermaid.ie

Eden Restaurant
Meeting House Square
Temple Bar
Dublin 2
Tel: +353 1 6705372
www.edenrestaurant.ie

L'Gueuleton
1 Fade Street
Dublin 2
Tel: +353 1 6753708

Odessa
14 Dame Street
Dublin 2
Tel: +353 1 6707634
www.idessa.ie

Hotels

Morrison Hotel
Ormond Quay
Dublin 1
Tel: +353 1 8872400
www.morrisonhotel.ie

Morgan Hotel
10 Fleet Street
Temple Bar
Tel: + 353 1 6437000
www.themorgan.com

Pembroke Townhouse
90 Pembroke Road
Ballsbridge
Dublin 4
Tel: 353 1 660277
www.pembroketownhouse.ie

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