India defies description. Literally. Since the first days of the Raj, British writers have expended millions of words trying to sum up the country, but have largely failed. How can cold print convey the feast for the senses that is a Keralan marketplace, the glittering purity of the Himalayas, or the chaotic spiritual ecstasy of a temple festival? The only way to understand this immense, complex, seductive riot of a nation is through first-hand experience.

Happily, that’s never been easier. The number of flights from the UK has doubled in the past year, keeping prices low and making more areas accessible. But with so many options, where do you start? The answer is: right here. We’ve created five classic Indian journeys, each one compact enough to make a sensible two-week holiday in itself; if you have more time, you could easily mix-and-match to tailor-make your own trip. Then, let the grandeur, romance and sheer energy of the subcontinent work their magic.

Package prices are per person, including flights from London

The hotel rates given are for the winter period, which can be double those in the low season. For more information on planning your trip — flights, getting around and when to go — see Planning your trip below.

THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE

Beginners, start here. The Golden Triangle packs some of the country’s most enduring icons and rich experiences into a (relatively) small space and time, making it an ideal taster of what India has to offer. There’s Delhi for the Raj, Agra for the Taj, and Jaipur for forts, festivals and all the romance of Rajasthan.

You arrive in Delhi, and you’ll probably love it, then hate it, then love it again, a dozen times a day. It’s a slightly schizophrenic place. The old city is everything you’d expect: cacophonous, crowded, bursting with colour and bustle. But alongside it stands a very different town, a new one built by the British in 1911; called

New Delhi, it replaced Calcutta as capital of the Raj. It’s outlandishly grand and grandly colonial: for anyone interested in the legacy of empire, and how it lives on in today’s India, this is the place to come. It’s easy to imagine how a house-calling maharaja must have felt as he advanced up the empire’s grandest driveway, the mile-long Raj Path, to the viceroy’s palace.

Of the main sights, the Red Fort is the most famous, but a little underwhelming compared with Agra’s. More intriguing are the tomb of Humayun, a high point of Mogul architecture; the monumental red-and-white Jami Masjid, the biggest mosque in the country; and Birla House, where Gandhi passed his last days, now a poignant museum.

Trains take two hours from Delhi to Agra, but it’s a quicker and more pleasant journey than by road. Visit the Fort’s stunning courtyards and lofty pavilions first, then make for the Taj Mahal. It’s a cold heart that doesn’t miss a beat when approaching. It swarms with tourists clamouring to sit on Princess Diana’s “I want to be alone” bench, and filling a zillion pixels with poses.

However, you only need to sidestep the central pathway, pick a bench and you’ll find plenty of peaceful spots to contemplate man’s greatest monument to love.

The Rajasthani capital, Jaipur, is the third point on the triangle — about three hours by car from Agra. On the way is the fantastical deserted city of Fatehpur Sikri, with delicate rock- carved pavilions and a marvellous hilltop mosque, still in use today. There are fewer tourists here, just sumptuous 16th-century architecture and an atmosphere of melancholy grandeur.

Heading west, the landscape becomes drier, the moustaches more flamboyant, and the workhorses are camels. Hewn from rosy stone, the Pink City of Jaipur blushes best in the evening light. Its famous Palace of the Winds is actually just a wafer-thin facade designed to enable the court’s women to observe processions in style, without compromising their purdah. Nearby are extraordinary astrological devices, erected by Jai Singh about 1730; rarely can anything so antiquated look so modern.

About 11km north, on a hilltop, lies the vast Amber Fort. It’s picture-perfect: crenellated walls marching off into the distance, the maharaja’s flags fluttering from turrets. Arrive in style, on elephant back. Dismount to find mirrored halls and fine views of the surrounding hills.

Go independent: in Delhi, stay at The Imperial (00 91 11 2334 1234, www.theimperialindia.com; doubles from £175) — a fine colonial grande dame. In Agra, there’s the plush Amarvilas (00 800 1234 0101, www.oberoihotels.com; doubles from £171) or the nearby Sheraton (00 91-56 2233 1701, www.welcomgroup.com; doubles from £79). Jaipur’s trio of Samode properties (00 91 14 1263 2370, www.samode.com) includes the Palace (doubles from £130) and the intimate Haveli (from £97).

Go packaged: Trans Indus (020 8566 2729, www.transindus.com) has five nights from £1,478pp, including Delhi (at the Imperial), Agra (Amarvilas) and Jaipur (Samode Palace). Or try Somak Holidays (020 8423 3000, www.somak.co.uk), which has six nights at more modest hotels from £979pp.

KERALA AND THE COAST

Laid-back, tropical, lush, relaxed: this is a very different side of India from the grandeur of the north. Start off with the rich mercantile heritage of Kochi (formerly Cochin), take a punt along the idyllic Keralan backwaters, then chill out on a stunning beach.

Romantic Kochi is an engaging seaside city founded on the spice trade. The Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch and British were all here: see their legacy from the many little ferries that crisscross the water, and visit the Dutch Palace, the blue-tiled Pardesi Synagogue, and the enticing streets of Fort Cochin.

The network of canals, lagoons and rivers that forms the coastal interior of Kerala, from Kollam (formerly Quilon) to Kochi, are known as “backwaters”. Turn up in Alappuzha (formerly Alleppey), with its scores of canals and old trading houses, and you’ll find dozens of operators ready to take you on a cruise. Two days on a rice boat with a crew and cook, being punted past simple fishing villages and sublime tropical landscapes, will cost from £100 per boat.

For nature in the raw, push inland to the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. There are tigers here, but it’s elephants, monkeys and bison that you’re most likely to see sipping at the reserve’s lakes.

At the far south of the state are beach resorts, such as Kovalam or Varkala — both small crescents of sand, backed by palms and rocky headlands. There’s accommodation to suit every budget, but everyone shares the sunsets.

Go independent: in Fort Cochin, stay at the arty Malabar House (00 91-484 221 6666, www.malabarhouse.com; doubles from £115). The place to stay in Periyar is the Lake Palace (486 922 2023; doubles from about £93), built as a game lodge for the local maharaja. Just south of Kovalam, try the stylish Travancore Heritage Hotel (471 226 7828, www.thetravancoreheritage.com; doubles from £90). Or, at Varkala, opt for the Taj Garden Retreat (0800 282699, www.tajhotels.com; doubles £71).

Go packaged: Abercrombie & Kent (0845 070 0615, www.abercrombiekent.co.uk) has 10 nights from £1,799pp, including Kochi (at the Malabar House), a two-day cruise on the backwaters, and Kovalam (at the Taj Green Cove). Pettitts (01892 515966, www.pettitts.co.uk) has 13 nights from £1,850pp.

TEMPLES OF THE SOUTH

India’s spiritual life is a million miles from the stern ceremonies of Europe. In fact, it’s a riot for the senses, but all in the context of a religious heritage that goes back 4,000 years.

After flying in to Chennai (formerly Madras), head south to Madurai and work your way back up. First stop is the merry mayhem of the Meenakshi temple. Appropriately, it’s like entering a parallel universe. Pagoda-style gopuram are thronged with blue-faced, multi-armed gods, animals and monsters, while the alleyways between them are candlelit and incense-filled. Just as surprising for some will be the temple’s elephants, which will gently pat your head with their trunks as a blessing.

About four hours away is Tiruchirapalli, home to the awesome Rock Fort. All around it, the tightly packed alleys brim with stalls of flowers, incense and fruits. But climb the rock-hewn stairway and you emerge onto the serene summit, with white-and-gold temples dotted around it like exquisite barnacles.

Somewhere on this route, the spirituality of India will overwhelm you: for me, it happened at the big temple in Thanjavur (formerly Tanjore). It’s otherworldly: the impressive ensemble of bare-rock structures topped by a carved boulder weighing 83 tons — placed there by rolling it up a temporary four-mile ramp. Ponder that while sitting on the lawn in the dipping sun.

A couple of hours north is the tiny state of Pondicherry, a French territory until 1950, complete with a Hôtel de Ville, gendarmes in red kepis, and croissants for breakfast. Two hours on is Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram), the most famous shore temple of them all. These days, it’s protected from the elements by a line of trees and a breakwater. It’s most dreamily romantic when viewed from a distance; either walking along the sandy beach, or as an exotic backdrop to a fine fish curry (£1.50) from a beach restaurant. The town felt the effects of the tsunami, but things are back to normal now — except that the beach is quieter than usual, and the welcome is even warmer.

Go independent: the Taj Garden Retreat (0800 282699, www.tajhotels.com; doubles from £68) overlooks the temple in Madurai. Hotel de L’Orient (00 91 413 234 3067, www.neemranahotels.com; doubles from £31) in Pondicherry is a French-era mansion. The Fisherman’s Cove (0800 282699, www.tajhotels.com; doubles from £99), between Mamallapuram and Chennai, is a plush resort.

Go packaged: Colours of India (020 8343 3446, www.colours-of-india.co.uk) has 15 nights from £2,134pp, including the Fisherman’s Cove, Pondicherry, Thanjavur, Trichy and Madurai. Or try Cox & Kings (020 7873 5000, www.coxandkings.co.uk).

EASTERN HIGHS

Less well known than the Golden Triangle, this trip arguably gets in more of India’s unique strengths: temples and beaches around Puri, the extraordinary hyper-city of Kolkata (formerly Calcutta), and close-up views of the highest mountains on earth.

Don’t let Kolkata’s invidious image put you off. Yes, it has its share of poverty and pollution, but it’s enthralling, heart-warming, even charming. It takes time to acclimatise to the peeling facades and chaotic pavements, so take it: watch the bullock carts, cars and people streaming over the Howrah Bridge, seek refuge in the giant Victoria Memorial, and watch cricket on the maidan outside.

A short flight south is Bhubaneswar, capital of Orissa — not a pretty place, but worth stopping at to sample some of the 500 medieval temples that are as busy today as they’ve been for centuries. An hour’s drive brings you to the coastal town of Puri. The town has some good hotels right on the beach: if you can, get here in June or July for a bizarre sight.
At the festival of Rath Yatra, huge crowds watch three 16-wheeler “cars”, almost 15 metres high — one each for Lord Jagannath, his brother and sister — dragged for a mile by more than 4,000 people. Nine days later, the spectacle is repeated in reverse. Hundreds of thousands come to watch: thankfully, though, fanatics no longer seek salvation by hurling themselves under the wheels. A short drive along the coast is the Sun Temple of Konarak, covered by sand for centuries, the mysterious apogee of Orissan temple architecture.

Then it’s back to Kolkata, and a flight and drive to Darjeeling. This charming colonial hill station straddles a ridge at 2,200 metres, backed by panoramic views of the Himalayas. There’s a church and library, as you’d expect, but Tibetan monasteries too; and do call in at the little Himalayan Mountaineering Institute for the Everest museum and the grave of Sherpa Tensing.

Kalimpong is a less illustrious hill station than Darjeeling, 50km to the east. It’s famed for horticulture, specifically orchids, with more than 50 local nurseries; and there’s good walking, and views of Kangchenjunga, the third- highest mountain on earth.

Go independent: Kolkata’s Fairlawn Hotel (00 91-33 2252 1510, www.fairlawnhotel.com; doubles from £30) is quirky and characterful. In Puri, try the beachside Hans Coco Palm (67 5223 0951, www.hanshotels.com; doubles from £65). The Glenburn Tea Estate (33 2288 5630, www.glenburnteaestate.com; doubles from £138) is a working estate 32km from Darjeeling, or, in town, there’s the historic Windamere Hotel (35 4225 4041, www.windamerehotel.com; doubles from £80). In Kalimpong, it’s the Himlayan Hotel (35 5225 5248, www.himalayanhotel.biz; doubles from £28).

Go packaged: Greaves Travel (020 7487 9111, www.greavesindia.com) has 13 nights from £1,999pp, including Bhubaneswar, Puri, Kolkata, Darjeeling and Kalimpong, with flights. Or try Audley Travel (01869 276218, www.audleytravel.co.uk).

INTO THE HIMALAYAS

A trip of two parts. First, the big-hitter attractions of Delhi, and Amritsar’s sublime Golden Temple; then up, up, up to the pure air and invigorating scenery of the Himalayan foothills.

After flying in to Delhi, it’s eight hours on the Shatabdi express train to Amritsar, the centre of Sikhism. At the temple, walk around the ceremonial tank, along the gold-rimmed causeway and into the “floating” inner sanctum. The complex is a lively and welcoming place, and serves 50,000 free meals a day to all-comers. Try one — collect your tray at the langur hall and enjoy a practical and symbolic staple of the faith.

Thirty kilometres away, in Wagah, is one of the strangest spectacles on the subcontinent: the nightly closing of the border between India and Pakistan — a choreographed spectacle more Gilbert and Sullivan than Customs and Immigration, with seating for several thousand.

It’s a dusty three-hour drive across the fertile plains of the Punjab to the Himalayan foothills. As the road climbs, the air freshens, the settlements thin, and snowcapped peaks loom bright. Tibetan prayer flags tell you you’ve arrived in Dharamsala, home to the exiled Dalai Lama and several thousand of his compatriots. Here, you may have the chance to meet His Holiness (albeit at one of his frequent mass handshakes), and to learn more of Tibetan culture.

The roads east of Dharamsala bring you closer to the really high mountains. There are several towns set on deep-sided valley floors, such as Kullu and Manali, with rice terraces laddering the hillsides and pine forests looming above. Here, you can walk over mountain streams, exchange nods with nomadic goatherds, and rest at wooden hillside cafes with chai (tea) and noodles. For committed outdoor types, this is also the starting point for some serious treks and climbs.

Four hours south is Shimla, built as the Raj’s summer capital for sahibs and memsahibs to escape the heat of the plains. It’s the biggest hill station in the country, with the viceroy’s lodge, Christ Church and colonial bungalows sprinkled over the hills.

Go independent: in Amritsar, stay at the indefatigable Mrs Bhandari’s Guesthouse (00 91-183 222 8509; doubles from £21). In Dharamsala, Chonor House (189 222 1006, www.norbulingka.org; doubles from £22) is richly decorated in Tibetan style and it overlooks the Dalai Lama’s temple. The splendid Chapslee (177 280 2542, www.chapslee.com; full-board from £74) in Shimla is a Raj-era classic.

Go packaged: CTS Horizons (020 7836 9911, www.ctshorizons.com) has 14 nights from £1,695pp, visiting Amritsar (Bhandari’s Guesthouse), Dharamsala (Chonor House), Shimla and Delhi. Or try Western & Oriental (0870 499 1111, www.westernoriental.com).

Richard Green travelled as a guest of Colours of India, Transindus, and Jet Airways

Planning your trip

Getting there: the number of flights between the UK and India has doubled in the past 12 months, helping to keep the lowest fares at about £500. Flights operate from Heathrow to Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai. Contact Jet Airways (0870 910 1054, www.jetairways.com), BMI (0870 607 0222, www.flybmi.com), British Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com), Virgin (0870 380 2007, www.virgin.com/airline), and Air India (020 8560 9996, www.airindia.com). Charters serve Goa from Gatwick and Manchester, from about £275. Try the Charter Flight Centre (0845 045 0153, www.charterflights.co.uk).

Getting around by air: India is in the grip of a no-frills flying revolution. New airlines challenging the railways include: Kingfisher (www.flykingfisher.com), Deccan Air (www.airdeccan.net) and Spice Jet (www.spicejet.com). Fares from Mumbai to Goa start at £22.

By train: Indian train travel is fascinating, but slow. Aim for overnight sleepers, or the faster daytime Shatabdi expresses. Book through SD Enterprises (020 8903 3411, www.indiarail.co.uk) — for example, Mumbai to Goa costs from £18, one-way. Rail buffs will enjoy exotic luxury trains, such as the Palace on Wheels in Rajasthan, or the Deccan Odyssey on the west coast. Tickets are bookable through most tour operators, or through a specialist, such as Great Rail Journeys (01904 521900, www.greatrail.com).

By car: self-drive isn’t for the faint-hearted, but a car with a driver is affordable: from £10 a day in a city, or about £20 a day, long-distance; arranged from your hotel, or through a local company such as State Express (00 91 11 2685 5483, www.indiarentacar.com).

When to go: Rajasthan and the northern plains roast in summer, the Himalayan towns are snowed in through winter, and the monsoon hits in June-September.

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