Somatheeram Ayurvedic Beach Resort, Chowara

Judging by the German, French and Italian holiday pilgrims who return annually, miracles happen here. The Ayurvedic regimes are not of the prettifying and pampering spa-treatment variety; for the rigorous health programmes to work their tricks, we recommend an extended stay in an ocean-view flint cottage in the blossom-filled grounds.

If the spectacular Malabar Coast setting isn’t restorative enough, leave the rest to one of the practitioners of this ancient school of medicine. Guests are diagnosed by dosha, or constitution — you can be one of vata, pitta or kapha, or a combination — and encouraged to eat accordingly from sprawling vegetarian buffets. For those who hanker after a more conventional sand-and-sea holiday that reaches the parts treatments and yoga poses can’t, Somatheeram has an enormous beach, with sunloungers and parasols reserved for guests.

Details: 00 91 471 226 8101, www.somatheeram.com. Rooms: 50. Rates: cottages from about £40. A sevennight Ayurveda package for two in an ordinary cottage costs about £920 full board, including treatments.

Friday’s Place, Poovar Island

Unspoilt jungle surroundings? Check. Sustainable energy sources, bio-electric sewage plant and minimal environmental impact? Yup. Cleverly designed Malaysian-wood cabins in harmony with nature? Definitely. No wonder this eco-lodge came highly commended at the First Choice Responsible Tourism Awards, of which The Times is the media partner.

The hibiscus-enhanced habitat, ingeniously built on a former swamp, offers a true Robinson Crusoe experience, but sadly at a fee that engenders rather high expectations. The save-the-planet reasoning behind limiting creature comforts means certain basics are lacking (no ice, no hot water, no bottled water in the bedroom, no loo roll, no plain white sheets). The shared bathroom is gorgeous, but its teak splendour would benefit from rigorous cleaning and a few toiletries.

However, the rate includes all meals, and the food is delicious. Should you tire of badminton, fishing, swimming and ornithology, you can be shuttled to the Poovar Island Resort where, for a tiny fee and guilty conscience, you can enjoy its spa and Sandals-esque pool with submerged barstools.

Details: 417 213 3292 www.kukimedia.com/fridaysplace. Rooms: Three. Rates: £95, plus 10 per cent service charge; includes breakfast, lunch and dinner, tea or coffee, one alcoholic evening drink, plus transfer by taxi from Trivandrum airport and boat connection. Three-night minimum stay.

Marari Beach Resort, Mararikulam North, Alleppey

India isn’t the strongest contender for beach-resort sojourns on a par with package deals elsewhere in the world. Sure, it offers the geographical requisites, but travellers who insist on slick service and pristine surroundings with a palpable flavour of the locale will struggle in India, unless they resort to the big international chains. Which is why CGH Earth’s hotels are a godsend.

Located on the hammock and palm-fringed white-sandy shores of the Arabian Sea, these gems offer a bubble of luxury that could give upmarket resorts in Thailand and the Maldives a run for their money, but with the unmistakable flavour of India. Marari Beach preempts the seasoned holidaymaker’s every need; and you needn’t furrow a green-minded brow over mod-cons such as mini-bars and air-con in the modern thatched cottages — the group’s environmental policy is exemplary. Solar panels power hot water, organic waste is converted into bio-gas, and a kitchen garden supplies fruit and veg. An action-packed schedule will keep you busy in and around the compound: yoga, bikes, guided tours of local sights, nature trails and more — think of it as Mark Warner, with a Malayalam accent.

Details: 478 286 3801, www.cghearth.com. Rooms: 62 cottages, 49 garden villas, ten garden pool villas and three deluxe pool villas. Rates: £130–£235, including breakfast.

Shalimar Spice Garden, near Murikkady, Kumily, Idukki

A few hours from the coast, this tea-growing territory produces green-tiered landscapes fit for advertising at every turn. Not what first springs to mind at a mention of the “Midlands”, as this lush patch of Kerala is known.

A secluded retreat at its nature-filled heart, Shalimar couldn’t greet you with a better simulation of Shangri-La: a wooden suspension bridge carries you over a lotus-filled pond by one of the tiled-roofed Keralan cottages to a relaxed reception.

Originally built from scratch on a spice plantation, this hideaway retains an air of Indo-European sophistication that appeals to visiting dignitaries and tourists keen to take in Thekkady and its wildlife-reserve wonders.

Rooms are staggered across a hill of landscaped gardens; heavy antique-hinged teak doorways and rosewood panelling make the characterful cottages more alluring than the rather basic standard rooms.

A glorious pool and two treatment rooms are on hand for lazy breaks from trekking and tiger-tracking. An excellent restaurant serves beautifully presented Italian and Keralan dishes that showcase the zesty spices — such as curry leaves, nutmeg and cardamom — grown on its doorstep.

Details: 486 922 2132, www.shalimarkerala.net. Rooms: ten rooms, ten cottages. Rates: £48-£55 a night.

Trinity, Fort Cochin

Imaginative oil paintings, quirky artefacts, and Modernist/Art Deco architecture — sounds more South Beach art gallery than South India guesthouse. This designer B&B is owned by the German and Spanish couple behind the Malabar House, the original East-meets-West boutique bolt-hole near by. Whitewashed throughout, with a Miami vibe unique in Cochin, if not India.

There’s a small plunge pool in the landscaped ground-level deck, but services such as spa treatments, and lunch and dinner at an acclaimed Mediterranean restaurant come courtesy of the Malabar, a quick stroll across the Parade ground.

The X-factor? Open-air en suites, complete with wooden Japanese sandals to negotiate the sole-pricking stones, and a wall in a bold primary colour that reflects the room name. While they’re all high on “wow” effect, the Red suite’s yard-cum-shower garden is a little pricier, and indeed the most impressive.

Details: 484 221 6666, www.malabarhouse.com. Rooms: three suites, with five more planned for 2008. Rates: about £115-£250, including breakfast.

Old Harbour Hotel, Fort Cochin

The white paint is barely dry at this contemporary colonial lodge, which offers simple sophistication at affordable rates. Open-plan elegance is enhanced by tiled floors, striking accent colours and hip arrangements of old and new Indian artworks.

Refurbished to retain its Dutch and Portuguese influences, even the most basic bedrooms at this 300-year-old property are bright and airy, with the three suites positively sprawling.

We especially loved the garden cottages and their alfresco showers in tiny gravelled courtyards. It’s a stumble from the famous Chinese fishing nets of Fort Cochin and bustling market stalls and shops, but sun-worshippers can drop anchor by its giant raised infinity pool in the large walled garden and enjoy some unadulterated R&R, with no shortage of fresh lime soda and shade to drink it in, thanks to a Jack-and-the-Beanstalk-sized mango tree.

The restaurant is reason enough to visit: 1788 offers a versatile and varied modern menu using fresh local ingredients. Its small dining room is inviting and chic, but for a romantic dinner, eat outside under the stars.

Details: 00 91 98470 29000 (owner’s mobile), www.old harbourhotel.com. Rooms: 13 — three superior, four garden view, three suites, three garden cottages. Rates: £60-£120, excluding 15 per cent tax. Prices are per room, per night, based on two sharing.

Mr & Mrs Smith launches its Kerala online hotel collection in June on www.mrandmrssmith.com.

Times recommends

• Win a Zeppelin flight over London
• A first timer's guide to... Morocco
• The budget guide to the French Riviera