Tamil Nadu might not have Rajasthan’s extravagant warrior history, Biki
Oberoi’s lavish hotels or all those sparkling forts and palaces, but it does
have glorious temples that it would take more than a lifetime to see. They
stretch all the way from Mamallapuram on the coast to Madurai, several
hundred miles inland.
For a first foray into this region you could scarcely do better than spend a
few days at the Taj group’s Fisherman’s Cove hotel at Covelong, from where
you can easily make sorties to two of the must-see places — Mamallapuram and
Kanchipuram.
This hotel has swanky cottages with huge bathrooms, plasma screens, a pool and
a spa. It’s full of chic Indians from Madras and Hyderabad who come with
their families for a bit of R&R on the coast.
Even if you’ve been to Mamallapuram before — go again. Right by the windswept
Shore Temple, built by the Pal-lava King Narasimha Varman II in the 8th
century, a small temple to the Lord Shiva has been uncovered with carvings
of strange mixed animals, part elephant, part cow, part boar, of Parvati
(Shiva’s wife) taking a bath, and of Lord Shiva sitting on a bull.
Elsewhere along a shoreline devastated by the 2004 tsunami, archaeologists are
busy preserving other uncovered treasures — mostly small, but none without
interest.
Mamallapuram used to be a little fishing village that also made some of the
most beautiful carvings in the world; the ruined Shore Temple stood alone on
the beach. Now it is protected by fences, there’s a small museum and a smart
shop.
If you can, wander around the village in the evening as the sun sets over the
hills. Everywhere there are bits of temples and carvings to look at. In
these humming workshops some of the most gifted sculptors in the land turn
out the elephants, gods and goddesses that end up in the grand houses of
Bombay, Delhi, San Francisco and Hong Kong.
Kanchipuram, one of the seven sacred cities of India, has about 200 temples,
all dedicated to Shiva or Vishnu, two of the three main gods in the Hindu
pantheon (the other one being Brahma).
While in Kanchi go hunting for silks and saris — Kanchipuram is one of the
great hand-weaving silk centres of India — and then spend a few days in
Pondicherry. Pondi is an extraordinary anachronism, being a bit of India
with a distinctly French past. It was built in the manner of a French town,
and many of its streets have French names; there’s a French lycée, a French
nunnery and the police wear kepis.
Wander around its charming streets, check out the fascinating combination of
Tamil-meets-Cluny architecture, drop in to its restaurants, and take in a
bit of retail therapy. There are good textiles from Fabindia, and handmade
paper from the Sri Aurobindo Handmade Paper Factory.
Stay at the Hotel Le Dupleix — it’s small (just 14 rooms — ask for ones on the
top floor), brilliantly restored, a blend of Tamil and chic modern, with a
gorgeous courtyard for eating outside as well as great food.
Or there’s the Hotel de l’Orient, one of Francis Wacziarg and Aman Nath’s
projects (they created Neemrana, which could be said to have been the first
boutique hotel in India). Every room is different and there’s a lovely open
courtyard restaurant.
Visit the Cluny Embroidery Centre in the Rue Romain Rolland, where women do
exquisite embroidery.
From Pondicherry you can take in three great Chola temples at Chidambaram,
Gangakondacholapuram and Dharasuram, all filled with charging elephants,
strange gods and dancing girls.
Too many temples can easily blend into one huge collage of gods and elephants,
monkeys, pillars and carvings, so my advice is to intersperse them with some
relaxation at Fisherman’s Cove and Pondicherry — and then remind yourself
that the temples aren’t going away. You can always come back.
Need to know
Lucia van der Post travelled with Greaves Travel (020-7487 9111, www.greavesindia.com),
which offers tailor-made journeys. A five-night trip, staying in the ITC
Park Sheraton in Madras, Le Dupleix in Pondicherry and Fisherman’s Cove in
Covelong, costs from £995pp, including flights, private transfers and
sightseeing programme with a guide, car and breakfast.
The Promenade is the best Hotel in Pondichrri - on the seafront - much bette thab the Dupleix - its sister hotel.
Bernard, Winchester, UK