Why should I go? Because it’s February and, frankly, you need cheering
up. With its kind climate and superb setting, Nice has always attracted
aristos, artists and the idle rich fleeing from the northern winter. The
town effortlessly combines yachtie glamour with old-town charm; on the
palm-lined seafront, svelte roller skaters in Lycra glide past
Gitanes-puffing Frenchmen in lumpy sweaters. Within three hours of taking
off from gloomy Gatwick, you can be joining them on Promenade des Anglais,
with the sun warm on your face, the sea sparkling at your feet and thoughts
of a cosy bistro lunch setting off a rumbling in between.
What do I do? First, climb the steps to the top of the Colline du
Château, the rocky hill where the Greeks set up shop 2,400 years ago — you
can still see centuries’ worth of ruined fortifications. The city lies
before you: on one side, the jumbled rooftops of Vieux Nice; on the other,
the yacht-filled harbour.
Head for the former, and lose yourself in the narrow, car-free alleyways,
meandering from gallery to cafe to market stall. You’ll find Provençal herbs
and olives on Rue Pairoliãre, and fruit, flowers and fragrant cheeses on
Cours Saleya, where you should also check out the baroque Chapelle de la
Miséricorde, once home to the cheerful-sounding Brotherhood of Black
Penitents. Take a peek, too, inside the Palais Lascaris (15 Rue Droite;
10am-6pm, closed Tue; free), a frescoed, stuccoed riot of a house built in
the 1640s by a well-to-do local family. Minimalist it ain’t.
It’s something of a shock to the system to emerge from the shady streets of
Vieux Nice onto the broad sweep of Promenade des Anglais, but do take a
stroll, even if the shingly beach is more Bognor than Barbados. The enormous
pink-domed wedding cake of a building at number 37 is the Hôtel Negresco,
scene, in 1927, of Isadora Duncan’s untimely demise. If your wardrobe
satisfies the doorman, it’s a grand setting for afternoon tea.
Gallery-goers will know that Nice inspired much of Matisse’s greatest work —
but, sadly, the Matisse Museum is closed for renovation until June 1. Don’t
fret: the Musée des Beaux-Arts (10am-6pm, closed Mon; £2.70), with its large
collection of Dufys, is a worthy substitute.
Where should I stay? The best location in town is the Hôtel La Pérouse
(11 Quai Rauba-Capeu; 00 33-4 93 62 34 63, www.hotel-la-perouse.com),
which clings to the cliffs at the far end of the beach. Go for a superior
room with balcony (from £140) — the views over the Bay of Angels are
heavenly. Or try Le Grimaldi (15 Rue Grimaldi; 04 93 16 00 24; doubles from
£75), which occupies a pair of belle époque town houses.
Where should I eat? Nice’s proximity to Italy shows in the local
cooking. The intimate L’Escalinada (22 Rue Pairoliãre; 04 93 62 11 71; mains
from £9) serves fresh pasta and gnocchi for lunch, along with Provençal
specialities such as stuffed courgette flowers and herby mesclun
salad. For a snack, grab a wedge of pissaladiãre (pizza base
topped with onion, olive and anchovy) or a socca (thin pancake) from
a street stall.
In the evening, La Civette du Cours, a cafe-bar on Cours Saleya, is prime
people-watching territory. If you feel the urge to splurge, go for lobster
at L’Ane Rouge (7 Quai des Deux-Emmanuel; 04 93 89 49 63; mains from £16).
How do I get there? British Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com)
flies from Gatwick, from £67. There are flights to Nice from 16 other UK and
Irish airports; airlines include EasyJet (www.easyjet.com),
Flybe (0871 522 6100, www.flybe.com)
and Aer Lingus (0818 365000, www.aerlingus.com).
From the airport, take a 98 or 99 bus into town (£2.70; 20 minutes).
Rob Kingston was a guest of British Airways and La Pérouse
