The British countryside is turning yellow. Great sweeping acres of it, going
yellow overnight. It’s nothing to do with the widespread switch to rapeseed
that is violating the dappled green pattern of our farmland. We’re talking
about the new “Freedom to Roam” over mountain, moor, heath and downland — a
legal right of access that will soon apply across England and Wales, and
which you’ll find highlighted on new, updated OS maps using swathes of
sunshine-coloured shading.
This Saturday, several regions win their freedom, opening up long miles of
Northumbria, Cumbria and North Yorkshire, plus every inch of Welsh access
land, to walkers. The southeast, the Peak District, the northwest and the
West Country have already gone live, while Devon, Cornwall, the Midlands and
the east of England will follow later this year. That adds up to 5,000
square miles of new views you could never explore before.
They are not just for chaps with bad beards to enjoy, either — as the sample
routes we’ve chosen below go to prove. You’ll need to take a map and a sense
of adventure, because everyone who strides out into the wide yellow yonder
will be a bit of a pioneer, feeling out the ground and finding gateways into
the new access land where they can. The freedom to roam has been hard won;
you’d be a yellow-belly not to make the most of it.
To celebrate the milestone, the Ramblers’ Association will be staging a
programme of guided walks next weekend.
Its website (www.ramblers.org.uk) also has links to a database of access maps
from the Countryside Agency. To check updated Welsh maps, visit
www.ccw.gov.uk
SOUTH DOWNS
East Sussex
The 226ft Long Man of Wilmington would probably be our most celebrated chalk
giant if it weren’t for the one at Cerne Abbas with a more eye-catching line
in weapons. The new access law opens up a thrilling new way to approach him.
Walk north from Jevington village, joining the Wealdway trail towards
Folkington. After 15 minutes you can strike out left across the open downs
(grid reference TQ561029), climbing onto panorama-packed Folkington Hill and
rippling westward to Wilmington Hill, where the Long Man reclines right at
your feet. Bear left here onto Windover Hill (TQ541031), more new access
land, and track south to meet a path (TQ535019) into Lullington Heath Nature
Reserve. Chomped by ponies and aflutter with butterflies, this is a remnant
of Bronze Age England much as the Man himself might remember it. Aim east
back to Jevington, where the Hungry Monk lays on one of Sussex’s more famous
Sunday lunches (01323 482178; £26.95).
Details: six miles, Ordnance Survey Explorer map 123.
VALE OF PEWSEY
Wiltshire
Not far south of Avebury is a piece of prehistoric Wiltshire that’s less well
trodden by walkers. You get there from a place of still gentility: Alton
Priors, with its pretty church marooned in meadows. Pick up the Ridgeway
trail north, cross the Marlborough road (SU112629), and you’re free to romp
out among the enigmatic humps and hollows of a Neolithic necropolis. Ahead
is Adam’s Grave long barrow, while to the east stands Knap Hill, whose Stone
Age encampment is stashed (so they say) with subterranean treasure.
The views up here are huge; and the wind can blow the bags right out from
under your eyes. Scarper west along the escarpment to the Alton Barnes white
horse, with its spindly, knotted-cotton legs, then gallop down off the ridge
to join a path into Stanton St Bernard (SU096636) and back along the Kennet &
Avon Canal. The Seven Stars (01672 851325), at Woodborough, is the top
choice for lunch.
Details: six miles; OS Explorer 157.
MANIFOLD VALLEY
Staffordshire
The River Manifold occupies the most intimate sliver of Peak District
territory, but new access is giving up some of its profounder secrets. Start
with a meander south along the valley from Hulme End, and turn left at Dale
Bridge towards Radcliffe’s Folly. Its green spire is the first clue to the
riches that once lay under your boots.
You’re climbing Ecton Hill, fountain of the copper-mining fortune that paid
for the Duke of Devonshire’s Chatsworth House. All that remains today is the
ruined Boulton and Watt engine house, plus 40 or 50 vertical shafts — mind
your step.
For the first time, you’re free to go south off the footpath to the soft
summit (SK100580), studded with yellow mountain pansies, and then on via Top
of Ecton to conquer the buxom tops of Wetton Hill. The views are pure
pastoral pleasure — but none beats the sight of ham and eggs coming out of
the kitchen at the Olde Royal Oak in Wetton (01335 310287).
Details: returning along the valley makes a six-mile circuit;
OS Explorer OL24.
SNOWDONIA
Gwynedd
This is scenery with a six-pack — all pumped-up waterfalls and fists of slate.
If you don’t fancy taking on Snowdon, you can now opt to conquer its little
brother, Yr Aran — two thirds the height, but just as macho.
Park at Pont Bethania, east of Beddgelert, and follow the famous Watkin Path
up through Snowdonia’s best surviving slice of ancient oakwood. Look for a
path off left (SH621520), which joins an old copper- miners’ trackway. Stick
to the footpath, branching away from a stream and rising all the way to the
lonely tarn at Bwlch Cwm Llan (SH604521). Now climb south beside a wall,
through some crags and sharp right onto the summit. Gulp down the views,
then descend the same way and stagger into Pen-y-Gwryd (01286 870211), the
honest-to-goodness hostelry that hosted Hillary during training for Nepal
1953. Next stop Everest?
Details: seven hard-working miles; OS Explorer OL17.
ALNWICK
Northumberland
Cloudy Crags — the very name rings with romantic expectation. But until now
the footpath from Alnwick towards these heathery heights has left walkers
feeling overcast: it’s a road to nowhere, and they have to trudge all the
way back again.
From Saturday, though, you will be able to scramble up onto the sandstone
pinnacles, lording it over the Duke of Northumberland’s Hulne Park and vast
views west across the Cheviots. Start the day by storming Alnwick Castle, a
Dungeons & Dragons dream, with stone soldiers manning the battlements.
Then stride past St Michael’s Church to pick up the two-mile track west
(NU180137), arrowing alongside the wall of Hulne Park all the way.
After a spot of crag-hopping, take the once-private driveway south by Red
Side, and follow lanes and footpaths back to town via Little Birkey Hill
(NU160123). Lunch awaits, at The Oaks (01665 510014).
Details: seven miles; OS Explorer 332.
Good to read the Walks feature but why, once again, no Cheviot Hills walk. These hills are Britain`s hidden secret, almost ignored by all but those `in the know`! Six hills over the 2000 feet mark and miles and miles of wide open vistas. The classic walk is a 23 mile round of all of the six 2000 footers.......a day in the hills par excellence! For the details of this route and some 19 more routes in the Cheviot Hills a visit to www.cheviotwalks.co.uk is well worth the effort. There are over 130 outstanding photographsof the area and loads more besides and better still.....all material is absolutely FREE.
Geoff Holland, Monkseaton, England