Beautiful women, exquisite food and heavy drinkers. These aspects of Hong
Kong's frenetic life that Ian Fleming so enjoyed remain very much in
evidence. The kaleidoscope of neon signs flash above bars and clubs just as
he saw them - only more so. But the cost of living has changed beyond
recognition.
His description of the then-British colony as “the most vivid and exciting
city I have ever seen” still rings true.
There is little to rival the mass of humanity, both sexes clad in Armani or
Chanel, dashing across the streets of Central on their way to an office or a
meeting to make yet another fortune to finance a hectic lifestyle enlivened
by old brandy and large diamonds.
Or the nightclubs of Wanchai, on Hong Kong Island, where Fleming encountered
the city's vibrant nightlife that parties until dawn. Not to mention, again,
the women. “The girls, thanks to the cheongsams they wear, have a deft and
coltish prettiness that sends Western women into paroxysms of envy.” They
still do.
The girls may only rarely be clad in cheongsams slit almost to the hip - they
are more likely now to draw attention to their figures in skin-tight Dolce &
Gabbana, teetering Manolo heels or sharply cut suits from Valentino.
This is a city with corners of high glamour where wealthy expatriates and the
Hong Kong Chinese elite mingle. It is also brimful of the more seedy bars
for visiting sailors that Fleming frequented.
The battered Luk Kwok Hotel, where Fleming remembered the tale of charming
prostitute Suzie Wong, still stands in the heart of Wanchai. It is no longer
a faded, dusty building, but a new-minted marble-fronted home to the many
businessmen who flit in and out to clinch lucrative deals on the rim of a
booming China.
The theatrical setting has become only more dramatic. Skyscrapers have sprung
up on land reclaimed from the “fragrant harbour” that gives the city its
name and are silhouetted against the verdant green hillside of the towering
Peak. Myriad Chinese restaurants fill their lower floors, serving food as
refined as Fleming tasted.
The choice of Western bars and restaurants would, however, take his breath
away. Tea is still served in the venerable Peninsula. The hotel on the
Kowloon peninsula ensures a memorable meal at its Gaddi's restaurant, where
Fleming dined. Jimmy's Kitchen, another Kowloon restaurant, has barely
changed - except for the prices.
And a venture to the other side of the island, again in Fleming's footsteps,
offers proof that the Repulse Bay Hotel, with its beachfront views, stands
smarter than ever. Expatriate wives and Hong Kong beauties - these were
concubines, when he wrote - lunch under the swirling ceiling fans and among
the potted plants.
Need to know
Air New Zealand (0800 0284149, www.airnz.co.uk)
flies daily from Heathrow to Hong Kong from £385. Premium Economy class is
from £1,055. Further information: www.discoverhongkong.com
HONG KONG
Things to do
The Hong Kong Jockey Club is still the world's most modern - and most
lucrative - racecourse in the world. There are few more exciting weekend
treats on Earth than an afternoon at the races - watching both the horses
and the excited Hong Kong punters gambling the GDP of a small nation through
the Tote.
Horse riding may be a thing of the past, but a stroll around the Peak or a
walk in the semi-jungles of the New Territories make a delightful escape for
the relentless shopping heart of the city. And, of course, there is the
shopping. Tailors abound, eager to make up a suit in 48 hours.
Jewel shops and gold dealers glitter on street corners and malls are filled
with the world's smartest brands. A visit to Shanghai Tang has become de
rigueur. Stroll into any bar in Wanchai to relive Fleming's nightlife
experiences. Or find a member of the fabled FCC (Foreign Correspondents'
Club) to gain entry to one of the premier drinking haunts in the city.
Restaurants
Time has claimed many of the Chinese restaurants that Fleming haunted. But
Gaddi's at the Peninsula (00 852 2315 3171) is still ranked among the best
in the city. And some of the world's greatest chefs have arrived: SPOON by
Alain Ducasse (2313 2323) has taken up a spot in Kowloon, and the Chinese
food at Man Wah in the Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong (2825 4003) offers
mouthwatering morsels.
There is The Verandah at the Repulse Bay (2812 2722) with its wonderful views
over the bay and fine food. And, established long after Fleming, the quirky
and utterly delicious M at the Fringe, almost next door to the Foreign
Correspondents' Club on Lower Albert Road (2877 4000). The bars, girlie
joints and clubs of Wanchai are numberless, and these are now almost
overtaken by the deeply fashionable establishments of Lan Kwai Fong - just
above Central - and those of a new trendy area known as Soho.
Hotels
The Peninsula, upgraded several times,
is as smart now as it was in Ian Fleming's day - and with Rolls Royce
limousines for those needing an airport pickup. Doubles from £290. Of
course, there is still the Luk Kwok
Hotel on the edgier side of the bar strip of Wanchai, and now rather
mainstream after a major facelift. B&B doubles from £131.
For those seeking a trendier place for the night, there is the Philippe
Starck-designed JIA Boutique Hotel
in Causeway Bay - all minimalist and rather small rooms.
B&B doubles from £183. It's hard to beat the Mandarin
Oriental - especially after its recent facelift, when rather
unattractive balconies were incorporated into the rooms to ensure larger,
more luxurious bathrooms. However, the Chinnery Bar has long ago abandoned
its "gentlemen only" policy. Doubles from £187.
The Grand Hyatt in Wanchai offers the
grandest luxury. Doubles from £191. The YMCA
in Tsimshatsui is one of the greatest locations and biggest bagains in town
- not for Ian Fleming, but a treat for those travelling on a smaller budget
and wanting location, location, location and a fabulous view along with a
rooftop pool. Doubles from £65.
