Mungrisdale is tucked under the Cumbrian Mountains, and a trout-filled stream
flows through the village. Just behind the Mill Hotel, a gate leads to
endless walking paths through the fells. Within minutes, if you’re fit
enough, you gain instant height and extraordinary views. Ullswater with its
steamers is near by, plus there’s the challenge of Saddleback, at nearly
915m (3,000ft). So if you’re going to take on some serious climbing, you
will need proper sustenance, and this is the purpose of the hotel. It has
won awards for its food, and dinner and breakfast are included in the price
of the room.
The Mill Hotel dates back to 1685, and has a wild and pretty garden running
down to the old mill race. Next door, however, is the Mill pub, filled with
dozens of hikers knocking back lager and taking off vast, sweaty boots to
compare blisters. The hotel is a quieter affair, largely populated by
retired couples who like their walking and their tucker. Beneath the beams
and clematis, the rooms are rather old-fashioned with no shortage of
ornaments and antiques.
Everything was clean and cosy, and the linen was crisp. Richard Quinlan, the
owner, appeared in the afternoon bearing delicious slices of lemon tart, in
case we were peckish. Had we known what was coming, we might have declined.
There is only one sitting for dinner, at 7pm. Drinks are served earlier at
6.30pm in the lounge — full of antiques, comfy old sofas, rugs and an open
fire. The meal was extraordinary: pea, pear and mint soup with savoury corn
and chive muffins; beef Wellington in Bernaise sauce (or vegetarian
Provençal stew) with green beans, roast beetroot and Jersey royals; and a
choice of plums in Grand Marnier, white chocolate and raspberry tart, or
fresh peach crème brû lée, followed by coffee or herbal tea and mints. We
chose an £18.50 wine from a fantastic list. If you think what you might pay
for such a feast in the city, bed and board seem a bargain.
But a short while later, we were at it again for breakfast: the “Full Monty”,
with mushrooms, Cumberland sausage, muesli and figs, grapefruit, toast,
muffins, and homemade jams. We concluded that it was possible to eat this
amount of food only if you had walked from dawn to dusk, without even
touching a packet of crisps.
Bottom line: Kate Muir paid £89pp for a double room,
including breakfast and dinner (and the six-year-old got free bed and
board).
Sampling the fare: the dinner was the highlight — worth
coming for alone.
What we think: If they freshened up the bedrooms to match the
food, it would be perfect.
Best thing: Lashings of food — plus afternoon tea.
Worst thing: Noisy, busy pub next door.
Access all areas: No.
Need to know: The Mill Hotel (01768 779659, www.themillhotel.com),
Mungrisdale, Penrith, Cumbria.
Room: 6 out of 10.
Food: 9 out of 10.
Service: 8 out of 10.
