The Indian Ocean is the beach destination rapidly taking over from the Caribbean as the smart place to get some winter sun. Mauritius, while not as beautiful as the Seychelles, has a higher standard of accommodation and service, and probably the densest concentration of five-star and luxury properties of any tropical destination.

New and newly refurbished properties are eating up the coastline, every one with a sandy beachfront. Le Touessrok, one of Kerzner International’s stable of five on the island, reopened after a ten-month, £30 million refit in December to great razzmatazz. Legends is a new hotel, the fourth by the Mauritian Naïade group. The golfers’ hotel Belle Mare Plage has added an extra course, and the three-star La Croix du Sud has also had a makeover.

Despite the hotel boom, the Government has decided not to allow charter flights to operate to Mauritius, pursuing a tourism policy of quality, not quantity. It is a successful strategy: 80,667 British visitors in 2002, up from 77,888 the year before, were not deterred by the lack of cheap flights.

So, with scheduled flights — British Airways and Air Mauritius both go non-stop several times a week — taking up such a large proportion of the cost of the holiday, it makes little sense to stint on the hotel on arrival.

And because there isn’t much in the way of sightseeing — the capital, Port Louis, the botanical gardens, the factory outlet clothes shops and the Trou aux Cerfs volcanic crater can be covered in a couple of half-day taxi excursions — and nightlife outside the hotels is minimal, choosing the right hotel is all the more important.

But with so many to choose from, what should you look out for? First of all, Mauritian hotels have certain things in common: sugar cane-thatched buildings are the norm in all price ranges, as are welcome drinks in open-plan reception areas leading to the pool with the sea beyond.

Hotels with four stars or more are likely to have a seafood restaurant and a Mediterranean-style one. In the luxury hotels (though not Le Saint Géran or Le Touessrok) bookings are taken on a bed and breakfast basis, with lunch and dinner à la carte.

And although Mauritius may have turned its nose up at package tourism, anywhere offering half-board is more than likely to hold buffet theme nights and gala dinners.

All hotels offer free water sports including snorkelling trips, windsurfing, kayaks, pedalos and sailing, and many throw in water-skiing. Other water activities, such as scuba diving, deep-sea fishing and catamaran trips, cost extra.

Almost all have free kids’ clubs (for 3 to 12s, baby minding extra), and some have activities for older children.

After dark, musical entertainment is de rigueuer — in a week touring the island I experienced traditional sega, an Ali Baba dance troupe, the bagpipes of the Royal Dragoon Guards, 1970s disco, jazz, and a harpist. My unscientific research suggests that the higher the class of hotel, the lower the sound amplification.

Beaches vary. In the north, some hotels, such as Legends, are on rocky coves, with the small beach exclusive to them, whereas on the east coast several hotels, such as Beau Rivage and The Residence, share one long sweep of sand with private houses and the public.

One thing is consistent: wherever you stay in Mauritius you’ll be made to feel welcome by friendly, English-speaking staff.