Nick Wyke
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to The Sunday Times

Vancouver – the city, the island and nearby food-producing areas – has long been one of the world’s best kept food secrets. A blend of Asian influences with classical European techniques inspired the Chicago Tribune to declare as long ago as 2004 that "Vancouver’s culinary reputation ranks among gastronomic giants such as New York, London and Tokyo”. It has not dimmed.
A flick through Vancouver Cooks, a cookbook that showcases Pacific Northwest cuisine with recipes by its leading chefs, certainly looks good on paper.
Delicious recipes include: Heirloom tomatoes tossed with asparagus and Saltspring Island goat’s cheese; wild salmon steamed with Okanagan peaches and mint leaves; Ponzo-marinated sablefish drizzled with maple and ginger, and hazelnut spice cake served with late-harvest Riesling compote.
All the ingredients are Canadian and seasonal, the harvest of British Columbia’s vast interior which comprises mountains, forest, lakes, farmland and a spectacular fjord-jagged coastline.
“Back in the 1980s we wouldn’t serve local ingredients. We’d import Dover sole, Icelandic scampi and oysters. Now British Columbia’s cuisine is so distinctive,” says Mark Jorundson, a contributor to Vancouver Cooks and the Rocky Mountaineer train’s executive chef.
“The rediscovery of what’s in our backyard has forged a local food culture as diverse as any in the world,” he adds.
Vancouver is a good starting place to get a flavour of what Jorundson means. The city is famously the birthplace of Greenpeace and Vancouverites have a national reputation as wholefood-chumping, pioneering folk whose culinary antennae are tuned into the latest food trends. Like their American West-Coast cousins in Seattle and San Francisco, they relish fresh, local food that’s seasonal, organic and ethically produced where possible. This is good news if (a) you want to eat well and (b) you want to really “taste” the place you’re visiting.
According to Vancouver Cooks the city’s inhabitants eat out and drink more wine than those of any other Canadian city. From dim sum and bustling markets in Chinatown to microbreweries and the public market on Granville Island and from lounge bars in the trendy warehouse district of Yaletown to wild strawberries in Stanley Park, food and drink is central to the Vancouver experience.
The influence of significant Italian, Greek (can we expect Manhattan’s “New Greek Cuisine” to travel west soon?) and Japanese communities feeds into Vancouver’s culinary melting pot. There are more than 600 sushi outlets in town; “These street-corner outlets are very popular for a healthy fast-food lunch. Only the very worst use farmed fish,” says a Cate Simpson, a local food specialist.
Vancouver’s Chinatown is the third largest in North America, with more than one third of the city’s 1.9 million population hailing from Asia. The Chinese enclave east of Downtown and Gastown buzzes with sticky-bun bakers, bloody butchers displaying live eels and flattened ducks, and tea shops.
Granville Island, south of Downtown, is home to North America’s only artisan sake maker. In her arty split-level studio the barefooted Masa Shiroki brews Osake which she claims is the first “fresh premium” Junmai sake of its kind produced in Canada.
“Unlike premium sakes imported from Japan which are typically produced once a year in winter, Osake is made in small batches several times a year in cycles roughly corresponding to the changing seasons. This allows us to produce versatile wines that complement the seasonal bounty of our local west coast cuisine – from fish and shellfish in spring and summer to heart-warming braises and stews in fall and winter.”
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Calgary was improving in the early days of the latest oil boom but the labor market's so overheated that bad things have happened - the good places, like alexis and capo, are now permanently rammed and worse than London for getting reservations and many others - saltlik, brava - that used to be good have gone downhill as it's impossible to run a restaurant in such a town and staff it properly, it seems, or else not to succumb to temptation to boost margins given the city's huge growth and insatiable money and demand and dumb the food down or use cheaper ingredients. or maybe it's impossible to keep chefs with any more flair beyond that on offer at catering academies for mid market banquet halls. Calgary will get there someday, there's too much money not to, but maybe not until the latest boom settles down ...
keith campbell, london, uk
A good article ! Nick did well, considering the limits of column space and the length of his stay in B.C. I hope he returns for a visit to the Okanagan Valley [where I was born and raised].
It is really much more impressive than his description, and the wines are very impressive. Unfortunately many of the wineries are small family 'farms' and do not produce enough wine for it to be sold in the rest of Canada, let alone exported.
One small error, picture number one is incorrectly identified.
It is of Vasseaux Lake in the south Okanagan [between Oliver and Penticton], looking south. Patrick Shipton, Toronto, Canada
Patrick Shipton, Toronto, B.C., Canada
Having been to BC and the Canadian Rockies for a three and a half week holiday in June, I can definately concur with this article.
Food and service in all of the many restauants we dined in was excellent, with not a bad meal throughout. The care and interest shown by the staff told you that you were most definately NOT in the UK.
I would recommend the Kettle Of Fish restaurant in Yaletown, Vancouver City for top quality fish meals at attractive prices.
Alan Brewster, Shefford, Beds
Thanks for the tips on Calgary restaurants, it makes me want to return there now. I must have visited River Cafe at a very quiet dip in the tourist surge. Does anyone know where to get hold of good BC wines in the UK?
Nick Wyke, London, UK
Have to agree with SBennett of Calgary..having lived and worked in Calgary in 1991-1992.................and a regular visitor since.........I think Nick needs to not dismiss restaurants in "Cowtown" so easily. The River Cafe, has been a solid "eatery" for a while but it too would not make my top 5 either....................luckily I know locals in the know.............and Alexis Bistro and Capo are my favourites.
Only visited River Cafe once......................and got touristphobia........and could see staff also annoyed at orders being shouted and pedantic questions about sauces, and broiling techniques(?).
Certainly agree with wine comments.........some of the smaller Canack wineries are really producing some good drops....particularly their sweet whites.
Senrab, HONG KONG, CHINA
Great to see BC wines recognised as quality. Ten years ago you were laughed at if you offered BC wines to guests, what a difference now. We had excellent tasting experiences in the Okanagan this summer (despite the unseasonal rain) at vineyards including Burrowing Owl, Dirty Laundry, Gray Monk and Tinhorn Creek. A shame these are not stocked in the UK. Picking peaches and cherries in the Okanagan orchards was a bonus.
Sarah Stroud, Esher, Surrey
I've learned a lot and feel inspired by your article (and totally agree with you about Calgary). I live in Gastown and walk past So.cial at Le Magasin every day but have never been there - that'll soon change. Also, I can't wait to try the sake brewed on Granville Island! Vancouver has far too many good restaurants to mention in an article, but you've hopefully inspired people to visit Vancouver and sample the ones you've listed as well as some of the dozens of other great places in the city.
J. Woodruff, Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Nick Wyke may dread the thought of living in Calgary and that's fine but he is way, way wrong to say the city's a barren foodscape. Sure, the River Cafe is a great restaurant--it's one among many and far from alone in its efforts to source food locally. Food and travel reviewers from major North American newspapers/magazines have happily listed a string of top tables in Calgary that compare well with renowned kitchens in major cities on this continent and elsewhere. If someone was bankrolling a nice dinner for me tonight, the River Cafe probably wouldn't make my top five selection (Capo, Teatro, Il Sogno, Catch, Alexis Bistro), mostly because the River Cafe is too full of tourists these days....
SBennett, Calgary,
Living down in Seattle, we do manage to get up to Vancouver on the Amtrak service. Always a thrill to be in the "alternate world" of Canada, we have plenty of fun in Vancouver's Chinatown, superior Indian restaurants and other significant proponents of imaginative regional and fusion cuisine. Even the McDonald's tastes better!
Stu Shiffman, Seattle, USA
Sounds fantastic, hold on I,ll get me cycle clips I'm going!
James Fairhurst, Farnham, England
Living in Vancouver for the past 5 years I find myself returning to the same restaurants often. Forgetting about the diversity of the food here is something that is easy to do when there are so many fantastic choices. The article left me wanting to branch out to some of the restaurants that you mentioned.
You forgot to mention that this is also one of the most vegeterian friendly cities in which to eat. The Naam, Yogi's, and Sha Lin Noodle House come to mind.
Mike Driedger, Vancouver, CN
BC is definitiely a forgotten gem when it comes to cuisine. Holiday highlights always seem to focus on the spectacular scenery, rather than what's served up for dinner. I visited in October 2006 and, while I admit the scenery was hard to surpass, the food available from local markets was as diverse and fresh as anything you would find in a European piazza.
Karen Walker, Newcastle, UK