Liechtenstein, they learn, is the world’s largest exporter of false teeth. It disbanded its army in 1868, has just 230 unemployed in a population of 34,000 and gave women the vote only in 1984. And Vaduz? It has a stunning backdrop of forested mountains and fairytale castles, but its modern role as an international financial centre is all too obvious. Over recent years, bright new office blocks have diluted its Ruritanian charm.

Longer-stay visitors should head for the glorious walks and winter skiing around the resort of Malbun, 5,000ft (1,524m) up hairpin bends. Echoing with Alpine cowbells, it’s half an hour away on impeccably efficient buses.

This autumn, this land of milk and money is launching “The Brand Liechtenstein”, aiming to “create inward clarity and outward profile”. Even unbranded, its tranquillity, courtesy, cuckoo clock-like order and air of bourgeois prosperity make it a civilised and relaxing destination.

WHAT ELSE

Vaduz has two first-rate museums. The Art Museum (00 423 235 0300, www.kunstmuseum.li), a startling granite cube, dominates the main street. When I visited, its spacious galleries were devoted to Andy Warhol’s late work, a celebration of celebrity in all its inconsequence.

The National Museum (239 6820, www.landesmuseum.li) gives a glimpse of a rural past, displaying arrowheads from 3000BC next to contemporary gun cartridges.

Museum lovers will also enjoy the Ski Museum, Postage Stamp Museum and, though I missed it with deep regret, the Museum of Calculators in the nearby village of Schaan.

There is also a thriving wine industry, with hillside vineyards at practically every turn. A new “wine path” in Vaduz leads visitors to tastings at the Princely Wine Cellars (232 1018), owned by His Serene Highness Prince Hans-Adam II, who invites the whole country to an annual garden party.

And false teeth? Fifty million exported every year from the Ivoclar Vivadent factory (group tours: 235 3535).

WHERE TO STAY

The Park-Hotel Sonnenhof (239 0202, www.sonnenhof.li), a short walk up picturesque lanes from central Vaduz, is the plushest place to stay, with an enchanting garden courtyard and views across to Switzerland. B&B doubles from £174.

Hotel Kulm (237 7979, www.hotelkulm.com) at Triesenberg, up the hill from Vaduz on the way to Malbun, is convenient for walkers. B&B doubles from £60.

FOOD AND FUN

The Hotel Schatzmann (399 1212, www.hotel.schatzmann.li) at Triesen has a Michelin-starred restaurant, with a nouvelle menu, strong on fish.

The friendly Restaurant Löwen (238 1144) in Vaduz has a characterful setting in Liechtenstein’s oldest hotel (1380).

In Malbun, the restaurant at the 100-year-old family-run Alpenhotel (263 1181, www.alpenhotel.li) is cosy and charming. Its menu specialises in local dishes, including rosti (based on fried potatoes), served in generous portions.

NEED TO KNOW

Liechtenstein has no airport, but access from the UK is relatively straightforward, generally taking about four hours from take-off to Vaduz.

Swiss International Airlines (0845 6010956, www.swiss.com/uk) flies to Zurich from Heathrow, London City, Birmingham and Manchester. Return fares start at £86.

From Zurich airport, trains (£25 return, www.sbb.ch) take about 80 minutes for the scenic journey to Sargans, from where a connecting bus (£1, www.lba.li) takes 30 minutes to Vaduz.

Liechtenstein Tourism (239 6300, www.tourismus.li) can tailor-make trips. Information also from Switzerland Travel Centre (00 800 1002 0030, www.mySwitzerland.com).

Reading: Switzerland (Rough Guides, £12.99).

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