Nice Carnival greets spring’s arrival on the Riviera with a bang. The gigantic figure of King Carnival leads a series of noisy parades (February 12-27 this year) before meeting his end at a beach bonfire and fireworks extravaganza on the last night.

And while Britain shivers, February in Nice is warm enough for you to sit outdoors at a restaurant enjoying a seasonal lunch of fish roasted au basilic — stuffed with the new season’s fresh basil.

The city is glamorous but that doesn’t mean it has to be expensive. Stroll along the Promenade des Anglais and admire the gleaming white art deco facade of the Palais de la Méditerranée hotel. It reopened last year after lying derelict for a quarter of a century and has been rebuilt in a style inspired by the luxurious 1930s original. Rooms cost from €280/£190 a night (rising to €335/£230 in April). If nothing else, visit the terrace for a leisurely drink.

For shopping, five minutes’ walk from the Promenade des Anglais is place Masséna, a pedestrianised square and the city’s lively focal point. It has a big Galeries Lafayette and busy Avenue Jean Médecin, which leads off from the square, has a useful mall, Nice-Etoile.

The places to explore, though, are the narrow streets around the square as they offer some of the Riviera’s best fashion shopping. Try Pink at 7 rue de France for haute couture and, for men, Claude Bonucci around the corner at 10 rue Massenet. Smart boutiques, such as Kantzé, line rue Alphonse Karr. The original Façonnable is still at 7 rue Paradis, a street that is also home to Chanel, Sonia Rykiel and Kenzo.

Mimosa-scented eau de Nice toilet water, lavender soap and Nice’s own wine, Le Bellet, make excellent souvenirs. House-and-garden items, especially fabrics with a Provençal look, are another great buy. Cotton tablecloths in brilliant traditional designs cost as little as €15.

From place Masséna catch a bus to one of the city’s art museums. Musée Henri Matisse (www.musee-matisse- nice.org) is at the top of Boulevard de Cimiez; the Musée Chagall (www.musee-chagall.fr), at the bottom. Currently closed for refurbishment, it reopens in spring. On the way back, admire the palatial villas that were once the winter homes of aristocrats from all over Europe, then drop into MAMAC (www.mamac-nice.org), a strikingly modern building as befits a museum of contemporary art.

Alternatively, simply wander the picturesque lanes of the old town, le vieux Nice. As you do, snack like a Niçois by grabbing a slice of pissaladière, an onion tart that’s a bit like a pizza, tourte de blette, a fruit pastry, or a pan bagnat.

Thérèse, queen of the Nice takeaway, cooks at the Cours Saleya flower market, which is open every morning except Monday, Buy a slice of her freshly-made socca, chick-pea pancake, and likely as not she’ll call out to a passing waiter for a glass of rosé to go with it.

Nice is a two-hour flight from London. VFB (01242 240 336, www.vfbholidays.co.uk) has three nights’ B&B at the three-star Hotel de Flore from £285 pp, including a museum pass and scheduled flights from London Gatwick.

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