MANCHESTER’S newest boutique hotel — which opened two months ago — was once a Victorian school and is next to the Granada TV studios. The staff wear trendy, brown pyjama-style uniforms, and the walls are adorned with African sculptures, oriental hangings and photographs of past pupils.

There are 30 suites in four categories fashioned in modern, but not minimalist, style. All are split level with large baths and separate walk-in showers. The “Grandest”, as they are called, have living rooms, dual baths and steam rooms, plus the use of a butler and chauffeur. All in all there is an air of effortless urban cool — you can just imagine a Manchester United player, on his £100,000 or so a week, feeling completely at home.

So is it all sweetness and light in the shadow of the Rover’s Return? Unfortunately not. My room — number 39 — was gloomy and faced a new apartment block being built yards away. The lavatory didn’t flush properly, part of the basin tap fell off (as did a drawer knob), and there was no air-conditioning — so on a hot August day the choice was between opening the windows and listening to builders outside, or keeping them shut and sweltering.

On the plus side, the bed was extraordinarily comfortable. I inspected other rooms, which were light and spacious, some with hand-carved Indonesian beds and a New York-loft feel. There is also a slick bar with a lounge, and a cocktail bar on a roof terrace opens this week — with a hot-tub overlooking the Coronation Street set.

Then again, the food in the restaurant was terribly weak. My guest’s lemon sole (£11.50) was ordinary, and my Aberdeen Angus beef burger (£10.50) was tasty but small, and came very well done when I had asked for medium. Breakfast at £16.50 seemed slanted towards the expense-account brigade. I was excited to see eggs benedict on the menu, but the sauce was cloying.

Perhaps Great John Street is taking time to settle in. I’d like to go back in a year — as long as I eat out and stay in a room at the front, maybe I’ll think it is one of Manchester’s coolest places. It clearly has pretensions to be so.

Bottom line: Will Hide paid £155 for a twin “Boudoir”.

Sampling the fare: Breakfast £16.50; dinner £45 for two (main course and wine).

Need to know: Great John Street Hotel, Great John Street, Manchester (0161-831 3211, www.greatjohnstreet.co.uk).

Access all areas: One room for disabled use.

Room: 5 out of 10.
Food: 6 out of 10.
Service: 8 out of 10.
Coolness: 9 out of 10.

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