APART from the waves, that stroke the pink sand as keenly as a masseur’s fingers, all I can hear is humming. The girl in the adjoining suite has stepped out on to her terrace, separated from mine by gauzy white curtains which billow in the morning breeze, and is softly singing to herself.
A sleepy male voice drifts out. Perhaps they are honeymooners. I just have a paperback for company, but as I sip green tea on my daybed, trussed in a thick towelling robe, and survey the briny vista of lagoon, pool and beach beyond the decking, I can’t help feeling I’m just as lucky as my blissed-out neighbours.
This is The Beach House on Barbuda. Probably the most romantic resort in the Caribbean right now.
The celebs may not have discovered it yet, but it is only a matter of time. The ones who seek out authenticity on the smaller islands — from Kate Moss to Kevin Bacon — won’t be able to resist.
Guests arrive, as I did, via Antigua, at Codrington airport, which is no bigger than an air-raid shelter. All they are likely to see are goats, cows and wild horses gathered beneath shady trees in the ten bumpy minutes it takes by unmade road to reach the resort.
If ever there was a place designed for the Beautiful People, this is it. There is one main building, an open-sided white pavilion with a wooden ceiling held aloft by chunky Italianate pillars; in stark contrast the cobalt pool and sea shimmer beyond.
Restaurant, lounge and bar are all in this single magnificent space designed by the Milanese architect Luciano Colombo. Staff, clad in filmy white voile over sharp shorts and skirts, glide across the dark heartwood floor between long, low cream sofas and massive coffee tables seemingly sliced from giant tree trunks. They circulate around the poolside and the perfect napery of the restaurant tables, then back to the bar and the billiard area.
It was more like entering a private club than a hotel; no reception desk or boring forms to fill, just Ollice, my personal service “ambassador”, waiting to take me to my room, unpack for me, and be on the end of a phone — my own dedicated mobile provided for the duration of my stay — whenever I needed something, such as a horse to ride along the beach, a taxi to take me into “town”, or just some more green tea and a natter. It was like having a new best friend who also happened to be a perfect host.
From the pale and tasteful comfort of my suite, one of 21 built around a small lagoon, I watched the sun go down.
Later, over dinner, deliciously salty dark bean soup, delicate skewered tuna kebabs and the best vanilla ice-cream, staff sang an a capella farewell to a departing couple. Everyone was on first-name terms.
Of course, there is always a little cloud over paradise. They won’t tell you in the brochures that the sand fly is to Barbuda what rain is to Manchester. Good repellent is vital. And for this sort of money, I’d expected a walk-in shower instead of one over the bath.
My real gripe, however, was that the only option at night was closing the French doors and switching on the air con because there was no insect netting. What’s the point of drifting off on a feather bed, wrapped in fine linen, if you don’t have the natural soundtrack of the sea?
It’s the one experience no one should be denied when they’re tasting paradise.
Page 2: Need to know and romance on a budget ()
Need to know
Getting there: Sally Shalam flew to Antigua with British Airways (0870 8509850, www.ba.com), which has return flights from £428.50. She flew to Barbuda with Carib Aviation (01895 450710, www.candoo.com/carib/), returns from £40. An oceanfront suite at The Beach House (001 631 537 1352, www.caribbeanclubs.net) costs from £321 a night; a week’s package costs from £2,070pp with Caribtours (020-7751 0660, www.caribtours.co.uk).
Romance on a budget
BARBUDA doesn’t do cheap, but there is a surprisingly good choice on neighbouring Antigua. Rates valid until the end of April.
Cocos (001 268 460 2626, www.cocoshotel.com) Overlooking Jolly Harbour, 19 gingerbread cottages on a cliffside. From £80pp a night: rates are inclusive of meals and house wine, staff delightful. A week’s stay, all-inclusive, costs from £959 through Caribbean Vacations (020-7636 3311, www.caribbean-vacations.co.uk).
The Inn at English Harbour (001 268 460 1014, www.theinn.ag) Candlelight dining as the sky turns from pink to ink. Hillside rooms are the best value, with views of the harbour. Rooms from £115 including watersports. A week’s stay costs from £960pp through Seasons in Style (0151-342 0505, www.seasonsinstyle.co.uk).
Harmony Hall (001 268 460 4120, www.harmonyhall.com) Sunday lunch an institution. Restaurant and freshly done-up rooms (fans, kingsize beds) looking across Nonsuch Bay. Rooms from £86 a night B&B.
SALLY SHALAM
