THE DANIELI

Because the Cipriani hibernates in winter, it leaves the field of top posh clear, in my book, for the Danieli. It looks straight onto the lagoon, with the Doge’s Palace and the Bridge of Sighs as its next-door neighbours. The doges, in fact, used to billet their visiting princes and cardinal in the oldest of the Danieli’s trio of buildings, the 14th-century Palazzo Dandolo. For unashamed grandeur and embarrassing opulence, this is where you want your room, ideally with a balcony and (go on, to hell with it) a full-frontal view.

The hotel has been open since 1822, and its most striking feature, aside from antiques and artworks all over, is its astonishing atrium, an Escheresque pattern of marble stairs and loggia arches. Another big treat: when it’s sunny out, breakfast is served on the top-floor terrace, with a view so stunning you’ll choke on your cornflakes. Even the coolest of guests can’t resist asking the waiters to take a quick snap while they slurp the cappuccino.

Doubles from £310, excluding breakfast (£35pp); 00 39 041 522 6480, www.luxurycollection.com/danieli

FOR TIGHT BUDGETS

PENSIONE CALCINA

You can find less expensive accommodation in Venice than the waterfront Calcina, but nowhere offers quite the same value for money. It’s been an inn for yonks — Ruskin stayed a while in the 1870s, and the original site was the Venice lime factory, hence the calcified name — but is now in the caring hands of its young owners, Debora and Alessandro Szemere.

The 29 rooms have parquet floors, 19th-century furniture and small plasma-screen televisions. Several face due south, across a wide stretch of water, to the island of Giudecca, with a pageant of boats passing in between. Rooms 2, 22 and 32 are on a corner, with windows facing in two directions; the hotel also has five apartments, three of which have kitchens.

Calcina now has a restaurant, La Piscina, with tables on a pier over the water, lots of home-made dishes and DOC wines by the glass (expect to pay about £25pp for a full meal).

Doubles from £91, B&B, self-catering apartments (sleeping two) from £93; 00 39 041 520 6466, www.lacalcina.com

FOR HIGH FASHION

CA’ PISANI

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